Is Something New Emerging in Fashion?

There seems to be a new mood and direction emerging in the fashion space, which coincides with my own mood and somewhat change of direction or view of the industry.

In this blog, we’ve talked a lot about the huge growth of the luxury goods industry.  How owning a very expensive bag, whether that be Hermes, Louis Vuitton or Celine, has become an everyday thing for many people.  YouTube has numerous, let’s say endless, luxury bag collectors talking about their high-price acquisitions.  We have also talked about the tremendous growth of fast fashion over the past couple of decades.  As you know,  I have been rather exasperated that this behaviour of over-consumption in the industry has become so normalised.  We’ve also seen the emergence of super fakes as a way to have these desirable items without actually having to pay for them (if you know what I mean).  I’m sure I’ve written a couple of times, asking what is really going on here and why everything got so strange and somewhat unfathomable.  Too much and too often.  Is more ever better?

Image curtesy of Style Magazine

 At its best, fashion is like art; it is created by somebody with a vision of the world or a vision of how they want the world to be, and that’s why we love it. It is the expression of somebody who has a commitment to making life more beautiful, more magical, freer, more expressed, and more efficient—overall, an improved experience of living life.

Image Credit - Apple TV

I recently watched the Apple TV series “The New Look”, which traces the early years of Dior and how Christian Dior had to fathom his own depths of devastation during  WW2 and put behind him the darkness to create a new era of French fashion or modern clothing for the world—going beyond his sadness and beyond the gloom, persecution and atrocities that gone before.  What I was left with (and reminded of through a dear friend) was how much the beauty of clothing takes us to a new place and a new sense of hope, desire and possibility.  Through our clothes, we can create something so magical, new and inspiring.  If you haven’t seen “The New Look”, I do recommend it.  The similarities to what’s happening right now in the world are a bit too close for comfort, but the characters are so well-developed, especially Christian Dior and his magnificent sister Catherine.  It really encapsulates his vision for the future when he could so easily have just given up, thinking it was too hard for him to follow his dreams at that time.

The finale had me thinking or wondering what that era in Paris must’ve been like.  These designers were all so close, supporting each other; even though they were fighting at times, they were connected, or so it seems (hard to say what is real when it’s a TV  Docu-drama).  It seemed that they were all committed to making something important for France and the future of fashion, and that’s where we find ourselves now.

Dior is a huge brand and business.  Since being acquired by LVMH, it has grown from strength to strength, currently being one of the top 100 companies in the world, with a market cap of 147.8Bn.  The brand does create a unique, authentic female spirit due to the magnificent Maria Grazie Chiuri. They have created something that is quite beautiful and iconic and, unfortunately, over-produced and easily copied.  

 Sadly, much of branded fashion is like that.  Too much of it is available, much of the craftsmanship is made in factories, and there are many stories of quality issues.  What seemed so desirable has lost its pull. 

Image credit: Phoebe Philo

Now, then, how about the emergence of designers forging their own ways?  This is really the inspiring movement that I’m touching on here.  Phoebe Philo launched her own collection in such a quiet and magnificent way.  Through digital drops, no social media, no advertising, no big hype, just dropping and selling out.  She doesn’t really care if you think it’s too expensive; she’s going to sell it anyway.   She’s not spending a fortune putting it on the carpet; it’s going to sell anyway.  Likewise, The Row banned social media from their shows.  The whole over-information trend,  over-exposure, has gone in the opposite direction, and it’s very refreshing.  We don’t need to be told why something is important to buy.  We don’t need to see it everywhere to be convinced; this is the exciting new emergence in fashion. It seems we are going back to the 1950s when fashion became all about a new era and new time in the world.  People are committed to creating beauty, inspiration, and a new direction for the Future of Fashion.  

Graphic by guest designer Tori Wilkins (http://toriwilkins.com).

Isn’t it exciting?

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love, Kate xx

What is Next for Valentino?

In the previous blog, we talked about maximalism and minimalism, with rather substantial references to Alessandro Michele’s tenure at Gucci, and the extraordinary fantasies he created at the Brand.  It was certainly an iconic era for Gucci, and since then, they’ve somehow lost their way despite the fact that I absolutely love the current collection and its minimalist expression. 

We’ve all been wondering what is going to happen to Michele and where he will find a home that befits his creative vision and magnificent expression.  We also heard that Valentino’s Creative Director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, is leaving the brand after a considerable tenure (2008-2024, with 2016-2024 as sole creative director) without clarity regarding where he was going.  Last week, there was considerable online speculation surmising that Michele would likely be going to Valentino.  This was eventually confirmed at the end of the week to much excitement and buzz in the industry and press.

Pierpaolo Piccioli - Valentino

 We’re unclear what will happen with Pierpaolo, Valentino’s former creative director. I would like to think he may go to Dior and do something there, or could he even go to Gucci?  That seems rather unlikely.  He has been an extraordinary asset to the brand, creating such extraordinary beauty on and off the catwalk.  However, last week, we saw the news that the couture and menswear collections would no longer take place, so there seems to be a pattern change in the brand.  The poetry and beauty colourist Pierpoaolo has brought to the brand was hard to translate into what people actually bought.

Let’s review what we think Alessandro Michele will bring to Valentino.  Perhaps Mayhoola, the owner of Valentino, sees the potential for the brand.  Remember, when Gucci under  Michele became a thing, there were so many new opportunities to shop for Gucci.  So many things to buy that we didn’t even know we wanted and we didn’t really know could exist.  Yet they did; it became a fun and thrilling era for the brand, and many of us bought items that now, although they are no longer relevant to the brand, have become kind of timeless.  They are crazy classics to us.  I still use and wear bags and T-shirts, sneakers less so, but certainly they will make a comeback.  Perhaps Valentino saw that opportunity to create a brand of that era.  

Valentino has always been a very stately and almost regal Roman brand.  In Hong Kong, where I live, it was notorious for how those “ladies who lunch” wore rich women’s clothes.  Mr. Valentino himself stepped down, and his successors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo PicciloIi replaced him.  They made beautiful items, some of the most iconic and jaw-dropping fashion, but somehow, with the exception of the “Rock Stud” phenomenon, it never became widely purchased like Gucci, Chanel or Dior.  Maybe it’s something we feel we just can’t quite reach, not only from the price but from its application to our lives.  I believe I’ve only ever owned three Valentino items: a pair of flip-flops, some rock studs that I bought secondhand and some wedges.  I have always loved Valentino. I frequently go into the store and look at it, as it is beautiful.  Somehow, between the price level, the accessibility and relevancy to my life, there is a gap.  Is that gap something the owners are trying to bridge by creating a brand that can relate to a younger consumer, creating another Chanel or even Celine?

 Certainly, many of us can see the opportunities available for Valentino and Alessandro Michele - the bags and shoes will be truly thrilling, vibrant and collectable.  Ready-to-wear is always a challenge for any brand, but there are certainly opportunities for extraordinary textiles, which Valentino is very good at.  It is time to create something that we would definitely be calling maximalist in its appeal, and with everything that’s going on in the world right now, isn’t it time for some dreaming and beauty - absolutely!!

What do you think? 

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

What are you, a Minimalist or a Maximalist?

It’s quite an interesting subject, especially when looking at fashion. Here are the definitions of minimalism and maximalism:

“THE PHILOSOPHY OF MINIMALISM

Contrary to common misconceptions, minimalism isn't about deprivation or sacrifice.  Instead, it focuses on embracing quality over quantity.  Minimalists are thoughtful in selecting items, ensuring everything owned serves a purpose and enhances their experience.  Marie Kondo, the Japanese organising consultant, exemplifies this by promoting decluttering and assigning significance to personal belongings.

Minimalism is also about intentionality, eliminating distractions, and making mindful choices. It promotes the value of experiences over material possessions, placing higher importance on meaningful items rather than those that merely occupy space.  A minimalist lifestyle involves an internal focus, seeking personal harmony before external approval.  It's a mindset, not a strict rulebook.”   Larson & Eriksen - THE HISTORY AND CONCEPT OF MINIMALISM

“THE ESSENCE OF MAXIMALISM: MORE IS MORE

Maximalists seek liberation by conforming to the minimalist, sleek, monochromatic vision of perfection.  This revolution opened the floodgates for an artistic explosion celebrating individuality and self-expression.  At its core, maximalism embraces the philosophy of “more is more”.  It defies the principles that advocate for simplicity, clean lines, and negative space. Instead, maximalism thrives with an eclectic mix of styles, objects, and influences.  From ornate Victorian furniture to quirky contemporary art, maximalist interiors incorporate various elements to create a feast for the eyes and the soul.  The Victorians used maximalism to awe-inspiring effect.”  Embracing Maximalism: A Maximalist’s Argument for Maximalism in One’s Life - Philip Boyd.

While these definitions are quite simple, they also leave quite a lot of grey areas, so let’s take a look at them from the perspective of Gucci designers.  Gucci‘s greatest era was clearly the Tom Ford era: was it maximalist, or was it minimalist?  This era probably leaned a little more towards maximalism, but the primary focus of Tom Ford Gucci was its sex appeal.  After Tom Ford’s departure, the subsequent decade was rather flat and uneventful with Frida Giannini.  I clearly remember the change of guard in 2015 when Alessandro Michele was brought to the helm, redesigned the menswear collection in a week, and put it on the catwalk. “New Gucci: nonconformist, romantic, intellectual”.  This designer and his handwriting expressed something so different it was almost hard to fathom.  There was so much newness, uniqueness, and playfulness craziness that we almost didn’t know where to look and what to say about it.   

One thing that was very clear was that it was something very different for Gucci.  We hadn’t quite seen before the next few years; we all were crazy for the “Gucci Love” sneakers and the “Dionysus” handbag or whatever else we could get our hands on.  It seemed like the years of maximalism had really come to the Gucci Brand.   The growth of Gucci under Michele was undoubted, from EU3.9B in 2015 to EU9.7B in 2021 - until it wasn’t!  In 2022, there were a lot of conversations about how it really didn’t work.  More sales were not growing the way they had been, and it was time for a new mood at the brand.

What happened next was the appointment of Sabato de Sarno.  The first collection of Sabato was a complete shift - very clean lines, mini skirts, shorts with elegant jackets, all quite purist and definitely minimal.  I wrote a blog about it this time in September 2023.  Personally, I love minimalism, and this was a breath of fresh air; any of the initial criticism was forgotten when he showed his next season, and all the influencers loved those looks.   

So what is better, maximalism or minimalism?

I have a few points to address here, which are clearly from a fashion perspective:

1.  Personal preferences/moods in time: We all have preferences, and often, those preferences are not just stylistic but one of era.  I love minimalism because it reminds me of a very happy time in the late 90s and 2000s, when everything was about Jill Sander, Prada, Miu Miu, and Helmut Lang.  All those very androgynous and minimalist looks, but it wasn’t just about the fashion.  It was also about the life I had at that time.  It was fun, surprising, and something entirely new for me, so whenever I see something that reminds me of that era, I’m so happy and refreshed.  Incidentally, at that time, minimalism was soon replaced with maximalism.  

2.  My views on maximalism and craving something new: I love some maximalist brands, and I love colour; I love print.  After the late 90s/2000s minimalism, when I stopped wearing all my Helmut Lang and Miu Miu, I started buying Marni - all colour and clashing prints.  I wore oversized and Maharshi with vintage scarf tops from Smithfield market.  The key point is that only some of us are either minimalist or maximalist only.  As with our moods, we (as humans) always crave something new.  That is the beauty of fashion; we can create a new vibe so easily.  That is the beauty of fashion and its limitation, especially when looking at sustainability.

3.  My approach: So, what would I choose from the two?  Minimalism at its best is buying high-quality, beautiful pieces and keeping them forever.  I still have some Prada, Miu Miu, and Gucci from that era.  I wish I’d kept more of Miu Miu, but I literally wore them out.  Yet I have had my maximalist periods and kept all my Marni.  The best expression of maximalism is the vintage pieces you’ve kept, the hero items you bought pre-loved and the gorgeous eclectic acquisitions.  The key to this is your attitude to shopping and consumption.  It’s not always about the next new thing; you can shop your wardrobe and keep things forever.  Make fashion fun and beautiful, enjoy yourself with it.  

The terms minimalism and maximalism pertain to design and architectural philosophies or even a way of life.  When we start to equate them to fashion, it’s very easy to become trend-focused.  To address this for myself, I’m both a maximalist and a minimalist.  It depends on my mood.  What I’m feeling at the time and what I’m choosing to wear.  I would say I have more of a purist philosophy, but I’m certainly not a minimalist, as in having very few things I own.  I once met someone who worked with us at Puma; he owned something in the region of three pairs of khaki pants, four shirts, two T-shirts and two pairs of shoes.  He owned very little.  He had a true minimalist philosophy and approach to life.  There are people who wear the same thing every day, but that’s not me, and I don’t foresee me ever being like that.  

As you know from reading this blog, I’m very passionate about clothing and fashion. I enjoy it; it’s a way of self-expression. Do I love the minimalist style? Absolutely. Do I ever have a more maximalist approach? Yeah, for sure. However, my approach is still based on a purist philosophy for how I treat my wardrobe. Have a look for yourself. What is your lifestyle philosophy when it comes to your wardrobe?

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

Let’s Fall In Love With Fashion All Over Again.

I have loved fashion my entire life (yes, even from when I was a small girl).  Well, I certainly loved clothes and the art of dressing from a very young age

As a lover of fashion, I have gone through many phases. There have been years that have brought so much joy and creativity, so much fun, newness and excitement.  For me personally, my love of fashion is due to the creativity, the artistry and the introduction of new feelings and emotions through clothing.  How, one day, you can experience yourself in a whole new way and have a whole new feeling about yourself and who you are, to have an adventure in life purely through what you’re wearing.  This has always been something that truly entrances me about fashion.   

Timeless

Yet, there are other times when I have become jaded—when I find fashion quite tedious. There is so much gloom and doom about its impact on the planet with the tremendous rise of super cheap and environmentally impactful fast fashion.  There are even days when I question why I’m in this industry and why I haven’t found something else to engage myself with.  There have been times when I’ve actually looked to find an alternative expression for myself through art, interiors or other types of business.   

Yet, I’m still here, and recently, I’m excited to share with you that I have a whole new sense of excitement, inspiration and fulfilment around fashion, particularly my own wardrobe.  Would you like to learn more about that? I’m sure you would, so let’s read on.

In the past few years, I have been honing my sense of sartorial excellence and individuality. As someone in fashion, I have spent many years following trends (to some extent, at least), and now I see how much we are intrinsically affected by surrounding trends.  I do believe it’s very hard to escape trends; they are just on the periphery of our everyday lives.  

Nevertheless, I have developed my own sense of individuality in style and this is what is exciting, inspiring and fulfilling and something you may want to take on for yourself.  Now, my wardrobe is divided into a few categories:

  •  VINTAGE AND MY OLD CLOTHES: I am fortunate enough to have some 20 or even 20+-year-old Tom Ford Gucci, Prada, Miu Miu, and Marni that I still wear. These are my old clothes, and I wear them because they really are the type of items I chose back then and still love now.  As with vintage - I’m not a big vintage shopper or even a secondhand shopper.  Clearly, I need to break through and overcome any barriers I have towards wearing other people's old clothes.  Nevertheless, I have invested in a few iconic and timeless pieces, and they are items I know I can resell in the future because of their brand status.  If this is something you’re interested in, you can research it and find which items you could invest in for yourself and the future.

Tom Ford Gucci

  • UPCYCLED: For the clothing items I have absolutely loved but know I will never wear again, I have upcycled them.  This includes my wedding dress and other items around my wedding, and generally, things that I probably wouldn’t wear in that form due to their style and details, but I still love them, the fabric, the essence.  As you’ve seen on my social media, I have quite a beautiful collection of upcycled items, which I love.

Upcycled

  • TAILOR-MADE AND DESIGNER BOUGHT: I know my style and love tailoring and statement dressing.  So, for my tailoring, I have historically bought many different brands of tailoring, but now I tend to buy from a tailor.  I tend to have my items custom-made and handmade.  Fortunately, in Hong Kong, we can do that at a very affordable price, and this is something I strongly recommend.  Tailoring is timeless.  A three-piece suit can be worn in many different ways, and if you extend this to adding a skirt or shorts, the iterations are infinite.  These are also key pieces I am buying from designers I love.  This includes  Sharon Wauchob.   These are items I will wear forever, so I buy directly from designers who I want to support and wear their pieces.  My relationship with Sharon has been very long, and I have become fortunate enough to get to know her and buy from her directly, which is extraordinary. 

Tailored

  • ICONIC DESIGN ITEMS: The next area is key pieces from timeless brands.  I’ve previously talked about F.R.S. (For Restless Sleepers) and “Missoni”.  These pieces are fundamentally resort wear that I can wear for years.  This leaves me with a few essential items that I may buy new from some brands that I absolutely love.  Recently - The Row.  I haven’t purchased any clothing from The Row yet, but I bought a pair of loafers.  Why do I love these brands? It is their commitment to quality that is extraordinary.  When you buy these pieces, they are not just fashionable. These are investment-worthy, vintage-worthy and timeless. 

Investment Vintage

In summary,  maybe nothing has changed in fashion, but what has changed is my approach to it.  Moving away from the brands I don’t feel I resonate with, away from trends and being present with what is important for me over the long term, not just feeling good and looking good.  How about you?  What will make the difference for you?  I would love to know.

As always, live life, have fun and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

All About Recycled Fabrics - Especially Recycled Polyester.

In recent years, the fashion industry has come under a lot of scrutiny for its environmental impact.  No surprise for readers here; we’ve been discussing this endlessly on this blog.  It is clear that there needs to be other options for virgin polyester, cotton and other materials.  This blog is going to focus on recycled polyester. 

Shutterstock image curtesy of PFI Fareast

Recycled materials are often referred to as upcycled or repurposed materials.  They are made from pre-existing materials that have been diverted from landfill and given a second life.  These include anything from recycled polyester made from plastic bottles or reclaimed/repurposed denim or leather.  One of the main benefits of using recycled materials in fashion is the reduction of waste by diverting materials from landfills and giving them a new purpose.  The fashion industry has been pressured to reduce its impact on the environment; therefore, recycled polyester has become the go-to, as it addresses a number of sustainability metrics, including energy GHGs and not using virgin materials.  It also creates a great awareness of the importance of a shift to a circular economy instead of a linear model.   From “take, make and waste” to a circular economy.  Brands aim to minimise waste and make the most of existing resources to help close the loop and contribute to a more sustainable and regenerative system. 

Polyester is widely used in the fashion industry, but it is a dirty material.  It’s a petroleum derivative, and “it can be 168 days without ironing and still look presentable”.  That was how it was advertised when it was invented in 1941.

Recently, recycled polyester has become very popular, especially during the past ten years.  This has coincided with the rise of fast fashion brands, as it is easy, very durable and low cost.  This fabric is a more sustainable and eco-friendly version widely used in fast fashion.  Recycled polyester, also known as rPET, is a textile made from recycled plastic bottles.  It has been created as an alternative to virgin polyester.   It addresses the sustainability challenges but not the eco solution to virgin polyester.  

There are downsides.  Nothing is ever that straightforward and simple.  There are key drawbacks which we will address here.

  1. MISLEADING or GREENWASHING
    Recycled polyester, also known as rPet, is a textile made from recycled plastic bottles.  It is an alternative to traditional polyester, but that is as sustainable as it gets - overall, it is not particularly environmentally friendly.  It’s still one of the most used materials in clothing, and why is that?  Probably because it’s cheap and easy to us.

  2. NOT REALLY CIRCULAR
    Recycled polyester has a reduced quality, making it less strong. It can also often smell and is still somewhat condoning the use of crude oil-based processes and materials.  It uses plastic bottles, which are transformed into polyester, which is good as the bottles do not need to go into landfill.  However, this involves a lot of manual processing and washing.  Also, making fibres for fabrics ends the ability to be recycled again as the polyester is often mixed or blended with other materials to make it suitable for making clothes (Lycra, nylon, elastane).  It ceases being a mono-fibre.  Separating materials in fashion fabrics is very expensive and in limited supply.

  3. VERIFICATION (is it really recycled). 
    There is also a supply issue with plastic bottles, but we don’t ever really know as some suppliers are buying new bottles to use in the manufacturing of rPet.

  4. MICROPLASTICS
    The age-old issue of microplastic release still exists as the polyester continues to be washed. The garments will still shed microplastics, which, obviously, is very harmful to the environment and human and animal life.  

Image curtesy of Fashion United

So, let’s look at it again: is recycled polyester a step in the right direction?  It creates awareness about fashion at end of life and about the benefits of recycling.  The most sustainable option would be to buy close secondhand.  However, if you are going to buy something new and you are going to buy polyester, it’s definitely better to buy recycled than virgin.

 As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx