In the previous blog, we talked about maximalism and minimalism, with rather substantial references to Alessandro Michele’s tenure at Gucci, and the extraordinary fantasies he created at the Brand. It was certainly an iconic era for Gucci, and since then, they’ve somehow lost their way despite the fact that I absolutely love the current collection and its minimalist expression.
We’ve all been wondering what is going to happen to Michele and where he will find a home that befits his creative vision and magnificent expression. We also heard that Valentino’s Creative Director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, is leaving the brand after a considerable tenure (2008-2024, with 2016-2024 as sole creative director) without clarity regarding where he was going. Last week, there was considerable online speculation surmising that Michele would likely be going to Valentino. This was eventually confirmed at the end of the week to much excitement and buzz in the industry and press.
Pierpaolo Piccioli - Valentino
We’re unclear what will happen with Pierpaolo, Valentino’s former creative director. I would like to think he may go to Dior and do something there, or could he even go to Gucci? That seems rather unlikely. He has been an extraordinary asset to the brand, creating such extraordinary beauty on and off the catwalk. However, last week, we saw the news that the couture and menswear collections would no longer take place, so there seems to be a pattern change in the brand. The poetry and beauty colourist Pierpoaolo has brought to the brand was hard to translate into what people actually bought.
Let’s review what we think Alessandro Michele will bring to Valentino. Perhaps Mayhoola, the owner of Valentino, sees the potential for the brand. Remember, when Gucci under Michele became a thing, there were so many new opportunities to shop for Gucci. So many things to buy that we didn’t even know we wanted and we didn’t really know could exist. Yet they did; it became a fun and thrilling era for the brand, and many of us bought items that now, although they are no longer relevant to the brand, have become kind of timeless. They are crazy classics to us. I still use and wear bags and T-shirts, sneakers less so, but certainly they will make a comeback. Perhaps Valentino saw that opportunity to create a brand of that era.
Valentino has always been a very stately and almost regal Roman brand. In Hong Kong, where I live, it was notorious for how those “ladies who lunch” wore rich women’s clothes. Mr. Valentino himself stepped down, and his successors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo PicciloIi replaced him. They made beautiful items, some of the most iconic and jaw-dropping fashion, but somehow, with the exception of the “Rock Stud” phenomenon, it never became widely purchased like Gucci, Chanel or Dior. Maybe it’s something we feel we just can’t quite reach, not only from the price but from its application to our lives. I believe I’ve only ever owned three Valentino items: a pair of flip-flops, some rock studs that I bought secondhand and some wedges. I have always loved Valentino. I frequently go into the store and look at it, as it is beautiful. Somehow, between the price level, the accessibility and relevancy to my life, there is a gap. Is that gap something the owners are trying to bridge by creating a brand that can relate to a younger consumer, creating another Chanel or even Celine?
Certainly, many of us can see the opportunities available for Valentino and Alessandro Michele - the bags and shoes will be truly thrilling, vibrant and collectable. Ready-to-wear is always a challenge for any brand, but there are certainly opportunities for extraordinary textiles, which Valentino is very good at. It is time to create something that we would definitely be calling maximalist in its appeal, and with everything that’s going on in the world right now, isn’t it time for some dreaming and beauty - absolutely!!
What do you think?
As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.
Kate xx