All About: Cellulosic Fabrics.

In this series, we have been exploring Sustainable Materials and alternatives to “thirsty” and “dirty” fabrics.  In this blog, we will explore Cellulosic Fabrics.

You may be asking what exactly cellulosic fabrics are.  “Cellulosic fibres are fibres made with ethers or esters of cellulose, which can be obtained from the bark, wood or leaves of plants, or other plant-based material.”  So, basically, fibres that originate from natural sources.  Which, when discussing sustainable fashion, is definitely a significant factor.  No oil or excessive water use - right?  Cellulosic fibres are mainly used in the textile industry as their properties are similar to engineered fibres. 

There are two types of cellulosic fibres: natural and regenerated.  

Types and Classification of Cellolusic Fibres:
There are several types of cellulosic fibres, which can be broadly classified into two categories:

  • Natural cellulosic fibres &

  • Regenerated cellulosic fibres

Fig: Classification of cellulosic fibres  “TextileEngineering.net”

Those natural fibres are used in various degrees.  Cotton, of course, is the most widely used, with linen next.  Interestingly, the other natural fibres have much less usage. In contrast, the regenerated cellulosic fibres are produced in massive quantities.   

The most popular cellulose fibre is Viscose, which has been used in the textile industry since its invention as “rayon” or “artificial silk” in the 1890s.  Viscose makes up around 80% of all of the cellulose production.  Viscose, or other wood-originating fibres, seem to be a great alternative to Polyester and Cotton.  However, they do come with their own challenges and impact.  The massive production of viscose is created through the use of heavy chemical processes, which are toxic to human health and the environment.  Below is an excerpt from “Common Objective”, which defines this further.

From Common Objective:

“Types of cellulosic are differentiated according to their production techniques:

  • Viscose – a linear open production process that uses carbon disulphide, sodium hydroxide and sulphuric acid (all known toxins to human health and the environment).

  • Modal – the same chemicals are applied throughout the process, but the modified chemical baths contribute to higher wet strength of modal fibres.

  • Lyocell – a similar process as viscose, but replacing sodium hydroxide with an organic solvent called N-methylmorphine-N-oxide. There is also 100% recycling of the chemicals and water used. Lyocell is usually marketed under its two brand names, TENCEL and MONOCEL.

  • Recycled fibre-based manmade fibres – relatively recent technological improvements have allowed the development of manmade fibres based on recycled content.”

Clearly, the same issues are faced in the production and use of cellulosic fibres as with other materials in the supply chain.  The easiest and cheapest ways to produce are those that have been mainly used.  We can all agree that using natural sources for material is preferable to the use of crude oil.  However, more is needed to make it better.  There are two critical factors in determining the sustainable credibility of these materials. 

1)  Where do they originate, and how are those resources replenished?

2) How are they regenerated or turned into the end fabric, and what processes and chemicals are involved?

Regenerated cellulosic fibres come from trees or wood pulp.  This means that trees are used in large quantities, and we all know of the impact of deforestation.  Fortunately, many sustainable measures have been taken to improve this and provide Eco options.  As always, we quote our favourite eco fashion maven, Stella McCartney, who has “forest friendly viscose,” especially with their signature stretch acetate-viscose cady used in tailoring and evening wear.  The brand has partnered with Canopy to provide FSC (Forest Stewardship Certified) viscose.  They have developed awareness around the production of forest-based fibres, working on a Life Cycle Assessment on the impact of viscose.  Prior to 2017, this was largely unknown.  The LCA provided insight into the entire process, from harvesting from the forests through the production of viscose and other MMCFs (manmade cellulosic fibres).  This is a great step forward, not only from the fabrics themselves but also from the awareness this has created in the industry at large.  

However, this is not all.  Stella is creating the “future of viscose”.  The vision of which is to move away from virgin wood pulp entirely.

“We believe the future of viscose in fashion is about using Nex-Gen and recycled inputs – like agricultural waste and post-consumer textiles – to make viscose and displace the role of virgin tree pulp. We want to tread even lighter on our planet, and we are working hard to get there.” 

The brand is working on “Nex-Gen” fabrics using recycled input, post-consumer and agricultural waste.  For further information, see  Evrnu® and NuCycl™.

The second issue with MMCFs is the chemicals used in the process of regenerating them, which (as we identified earlier) are harmful to human health.  However, there has been tremendous progress in this area, too, with Lenzing being a great example.

“In 1977, Lenzing began using an eco-friendly bleaching method for its cellulosic fibres. The process is less toxic, reuses the chemicals and sources beech trees from FSC or PEFC-accredited forests. Lenzing trademarked its modal fabric as TENCEL Modal®.”

“Win-Win.info”

Yes, Cellulosic fibres are a good option for materials.  They do not use crude oil and (very importantly) can be recycled.  However, not all cellulosic fibres are the same.  We really need to be aware of what we are buying and how they have been produced.  The market has very viably sustainable options; as conscious consumers, it is our duty to educate ourselves and those around us to buy more consciously.  If we think these conscious materials are too expensive, buy fewer or secondhand.  Always go with your dollars, ask questions, and look for those brands promoting robustly sustainable options.

KEY POINTS WHEN BUYING MMCFs:  

  • FSC / Canopy origin

  • ⁠Consider where & how the fibres were processed.

  • Opt for the Sustainable options through the brand names here.

There are always ways to be better as consumers; much of it is our choice.  We can make an impact by shopping more consciously and not opting for virgin polyester because it is easier or cheaper.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

Is the Future of Fashion Lab-Grown?

In my blogs, we frequently discuss the environmental impact of “thirsty” and “dirty” materials used in the fashion industry.  How wasteful and toxic our currently used materials and processes are on nature, biodiversity, oceans and, by large, on the planet's future.

Image curtesy of Iberdrola

We have also considered how there seems to be very little change to these ongoing problems, such as the microplastic issue from the dependence upon polyester and other petroleum-based materials.  You may say, “There’s lots of recycled polyester being used”.  Yes, there is, but that does not end the microfibre shedding issue, and, ultimately, those recycled polyesters do not disappear; they just end up in landfills, living forever.

At the risk of feeling resigned about all of this, we need to look a little bit closer.  What are the alternatives available to replace these dirty and thirsty fabrics? 

There has been press and social media content related to “bio-fabrication” and the urgency required to get these to market.  We saw a lot of noise surrounding material suppliers, such as “Modern Meadow”,  “Spiber”, and Bolt Threads” in the pre-pandemic years (2108-2019).  Yet here we are 3 to 4 years later, and there doesn’t seem to have been a great deal of growth.  Certainly, the brand that frequently features on this blog, “Stella McCartney”, has partnered extensively with some of these tremendous materials providers, so, yes, they are in the market.  Other Brands include “Outdoor Voices”, “Sacai”, and “North Face”.  While these developments are progress, this really isn’t the mainstream.  Until mainstream fashion adopts some of these technologies, the reliance upon polyester will continue.

Stella McCartney Shift Dress using Microsilk from Bolt Threads

So, let’s look deeper into what these fabrics are and what is possible when we utilise them.  

As we stated earlier, these fabrics are what we’ve referred to as “lab-grown”. The process is “bio-fabrication”, and the idea is that “garments are grown rather than sewn, cultivated in huge labs under precise conditions”.  These originate from nature, mainly from mould or algae, bacteria and fungi, which grow in labs.  They exist without any real impact on the environment and are being used for leather as an alternative for creating sneakers.  Another great example is the “Moon Parker”, a collaboration with North Face and Japanese textile innovator Spiber, a brewed protein described as synthetic spider silk.  “Spy” also produced T-shirts with Sacai and sweaters with “Goldwyn”, all made from the same material.  This is all so great.  So why aren’t we seeing more of this?  We know that Adidas have made Stan Smith Sneakers from “Mylo”, which is a mushroom leather.  It is also extensively used by Stella McCartney, coming from “Bolt Threads”, a California start-up that produces the material. 

So, what’s good about all of these fabrics?  Well, clearly, we have discussed the sustainability aspect - they do not use huge amounts of water such as is needed with cotton, and there are no microplastics and subsequent waste left in our oceans.  The great benefit of biofabrics is they can degrade to almost nothing or return to biomass within a few weeks.  They are compostable and can also be grown to fulfil specific needs, so there is a massive reduction in waste.  When looking at these kinds of fabrics, we see huge benefits from reducing water usage and petroleum-based substances to the end of life solutions.   

Imagine a future where these amazing fabrics are created and made into products nearby.  What an extraordinary world with the reduction of so many currently existing environmental and ethical challenges.  It seems such an easy solution to replace materials and processes.  So what’s the downside? An article from “The Business of Fashion” titled “Are New Materials Ready to Go Mainstream?” , stated: 

“A big challenge for new materials, as they look to enter the market, is that they must compete with tried-and-tested products on price, performance and aesthetics, while the scientific and sustainability credentials that may make them groundbreaking technologies are unlikely to resonate with the average shopper.”

The issue here is that it remains challenging to commercialise biofabrics not only through scale, price and performance but also through customer acceptance.  While we see biofabrics being used by sustainable fashion maven Stella McCartney and even Yeezy, we don’t see any companies where a significant impact will be made.  We have seen some activities from Adidas and Nike, but not conclusively where they say our sneakers will only be made from this.  What it requires is for a large brand to take this on and produce at scale, bring down the cost and raise the commercialisation.  Then we can really change things and create a world where the impact on biodiversity, ocean waste and end of life can truly be addressed. Let’s hope that day is coming soon.

What do you think?

 As always, love life and enjoy Fashion.

Kate xx

Let’s Talk About Vegan Leather

During the past ten years, there have been a lot of discussions regarding leather and leather alternatives.  For those who are committed to not wearing animal products, this has been a well-documented journey.  In this blog, we will explore the use of leather and its alternatives and what is the best way forward as a conscious and aware consumer.

Source & Copyright by freepik

Leather is a material I have worn and bought for many years.  I really love shoes and bags; I also have some beautiful leather jackets, pants and even shorts (you know I keep my clothes and accessories for a long time).  Leather is certainly perceived as a luxurious material, hence its desirability - until recently.  With the increase of veganism and awareness for animal welfare, using this animal resource became far less desirable, and replacements were needed.

The Sustainable Material and Fashion Maven and pioneer - Stella McCartney - has never used leather in her namesake brand.  When she launched her famous Falabella bag in a leather alternative (since replaced by “Mylo™ – an innovative new material that looks and feels like leather, but is vegan and grown from mycelium, the underground root structure of mushrooms.”)  I found it hard to understand, she was clearly ahead of her time, and I was too distracted with what Gucci, Celine and others were making.   

“Stella McCartney has never used leather, feathers, fur or skin since day one. By taking this stance, we are proof it is possible to create beautiful luxury products that are cruelty-free.  As well as being cruel, leather’s environmental impact is incredibly high.  Animal agriculture accounts for around 18% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions and is driving the destruction of our rainforests.”

McCartney has really forged a progressive journey towards leather alternatives with lower environmental impact, as well as a negative effect on animals.  

Image Source: Mylo™

The more popular alternative has been “vegan leather”, which also supports animal rights.  However, by now, the dirty secret is out.  Many vegan leathers are made from PU or PVC - yes, our old friend oil.  So they last for a very long time, if not forever.  We know a lot about the impact of oil-based materials.  

Additionally, the treatment and manufacturing processes also contribute to the negative environmental impact.  There was a time when so many people were excited by vegan leather; I remember receiving a lovely gift from a friend.  Sadly, the materials and processes were not well known.  Yet, every cloud has a silver lining.

The disappointment or unease regarding PU-based vegan leather led to other tremendous innovations and discoveries, including natural-based materials and oil-free alternatives, such as mushroom leather, developed by such companies as Bolt Threads, Myco Works, and Ecovative.  Bolt Threads and Myco Works are used a lot by Stella McCartney and have very credible alternatives.  Another well-known option is Pinatex, which was created by Dr Carmen Hijosa. Piñatex is from cellulose fibres extracted from pineapple leaves - “../while far more eco-friendly than PU and PVC leathers in terms of requiring fewer carbon emissions to produce, it is still mixed with polylactic acid and a petroleum-based resin, which makes the end-product non-biodegradable.”  Others include apple & mango leathers.  There is also “Vegea” made from grape skin and used by H&M in bags and shoes, as well as cactus leather “Desserto Leather”.  

There are so many exciting alternatives, yet there are still so many leather bags and shoes being sold.  Will some major brands or retailers step forward and commit to a new direction?  Perhaps some legislation will be implemented to reduce the use of leather.  

For us personally (as consumers), you may ask, “What should I do?”

If you have bags in your wardrobe, select those first.  There are so many available on resale sites, or swap and borrow with friends.  As I research and write about these materials, trends and evolutions, I really value what I have in my closet.  Prices have rocketed for branded bags, which again drives some level of consumption.  

There are also incredible brands making an impact in ethical luxury, including the beloved “Stelar”  and “Maestoso”.  Ask yourself what is important when making this purchase, how long do you intend to use it, and what happens when you no longer want it.

As always, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love,

Kate xx

Sustainable Material Innovations

Exploring  Sustainable Fashion: Lab-Grown Fabrics and Innovative Textiles. What is the latest news with these, and why do they appear so scarce?

One of the most fascinating areas of Sustainable Fashion is the frontiers of Sustainable material innovation, including lab-grown, cellulosic and recycled innovations.  It is one of the most satisfying subjects when done with awareness and innovation.  I am so inspired when I look at the Stella McCartney materials strategy.

Image curtesy of Stella McCartney

The growth of fast fashion and clothing production has relied upon low-cost materials, primarily cotton and polyester–either thirsty crops or dirty fabrics (using oil).  Cheap fashion is not clean; the dependency on these fabrics has led to fashion being the third most polluting industry (after oil and agriculture).  Using such fabrics is an easy solution to meeting margin targets and speed-to-market.  Yet, we all know this is not sustainable.  So, what have been the developments for those committed to transforming these fabric offerings? 

One important area and a greener alternative is Cellulosic Fabrics.

Cellulosic fabrics, such as Tencel, Modal, and Lyocell, are increasingly gaining popularity in the fashion industry for their numerous benefits for sustainable fashion.  These fabrics are made from cellulose, a plant-based material, which makes them biodegradable and eco-friendly.  These fabrics are derived from renewable sources such as wood pulp from trees and bamboo, making them a more environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic or petroleum-based fabrics.  Additionally, the production process for cellulosic fabrics requires fewer chemicals and less water compared to other types of fabrics, reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact.

These fabrics are a great alternative to cotton and especially polyester, as they are easier to recycle and reuse.  The production of these fabrics does not have the same impact as non-natural synthetics.  The fabrics are also less impactful at the end of life, resulting in a much reduced environmental impact.

Other exciting developments include lab-grown or biofabricated materials, including “Modern Meadow”, “Spiber”, and “Bolt Threads”.  Who raised considerable investment when money was cheaper. They are providing extraordinary alternatives to such impactful materials as silk and leather.  These innovations are lab-grown alternatives to some of our most-used materials, especially leather.

These innovative materials provide robust solutions to their dirty and thirsty predecessors.  So, what could possibly go wrong?

A recent article in “Business of Fashion” posed the question,  “Are New Materials Ready to Go Mainstream?”  The answer appears to be “no”.  Why is that?

There are several factors contributing to this.  Firstly, there was so much hype around the creation of these materials when the scalability did not happen within the speed the fashion industry demands.  As a result, sadly, there are halts in the evolution and scalability of many of these much-anticipated material innovators.  Bolt Threads announced in July 2023 that it was halting production.  On August 23, Amyris filed for bankruptcy.

The BoF article goes on to state, “When Business gets tough, Brands opt for cheaper and more proven materials.”  The article also discusses the viability of recently exciting fabric and fibre developments and how these materials must have equivalent or better properties than fossil-based materials to gain a commercial competitive advantage.   

So what is The Road Ahead?

Certainly, we need alternatives to dirty and thirsty materials.  However, they must be viable, priced within reality and accessible.  The easiest step forward must lie within the cellulosic fibre groups.  The lab-grown and bio-fabricated innovations have huge potential, but they also need to be realised commercially to transform the world of fashion materials.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Take care,

Kate xx

Quiet Luxury - Is It A Positive Direction Or Just Another Trend?

Everywhere on Social Media and wherever else possible, we have been hearing about “Quiet Luxury”.  As I write this, I feel rather late to the party - sorry.  However, this is very relevant. Now that the hype is over, we can see this sartorial movement's potential impact and longevity.

Image curtesy of Fashion United

WHAT IS QUIET LUXURY?

 According to Wikipedia:

“Quiet luxury is a lifestyle characterised by understated elegance and refined consumption, emphasising exclusivity and discerning taste without overt displays of wealth.  Other terms to describe the same concept include stealth wealth, old money aesthetic, or silent luxury.”  

It came upon us through a series of recent events and appearances:

  • The SUCCESSION effect: This HBO drama was about a power-hungry global media conglomerate billionaire family and their crazy conniving ways to take over from the patriarch.  The wardrobe was muted, quiet, quite boring and epitomised by the unbranded 500 USD “Loro Piana” cap as worn by the character Kendall Roy.

Succession - The Roy Family

  • Gwyneth Paltrow’s civil court appearance for the Utah Ski accident where she turned up in “Billionaire chic”.  Nothing impressive, more Loro Piana, muted tones, cashmere, all high-priced pieces and certainly some GOOP own-brand items.

“The Row” is literally everywhere.  The Olsen Twins have relentlessly pursued their quiet luxury brand.  Their price point reflects their commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, luxurious materials and meticulous attention to detail.  Each piece is meticulously constructed by skilled artisans using the finest fabrics, resulting in garments and accessories that stand the test of time.                           

Now, their bags are becoming the new “it” bags, starting at 3000USD and going up to Hermes price points with ease.

  • Sophia Richie’s wedding, where the bride has clearly shed her LA “young girlfriend” in the Kardashian circle to become elegant, minimal and mega-rich.  As clearly displayed in her multiple low-key Chanel gowns.

Is “Quiet Luxury” a positive fashion direction or just another trend?  Let’s have a look.

WHAT IS GOOD ABOUT IT?

  • Quiet luxury is a positive direction in the future of fashion as it focuses on high-quality, timeless pieces that are ethically and sustainably made.  This shift towards more mindful and intentional consumption aligns with the growing demand for sustainable fashion.

  • Unlike trends that come and go, quiet luxury emphasises the value of craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the use of luxurious, eco-friendly materials.  This long-term approach challenges the fast fashion industry and encourages consumers to think about the longevity and durability of their clothing.

  • The impact of overconsumption on the environment and the well-being of garment workers has pushed the fashion industry to reconsider its practices.  Quiet Luxury offers a solution by promoting a more ethical and responsible approach to fashion, focusing on quality, longevity and style.

All of this sounds great.  At face value, this seems like significant progress.  However, anything arising from popular culture has to be considered a trend.  People are wearing those Loro Piana Caps exactly because of Kendall Roy.  The stealth wealth chic has come to the fore after the maximalist trend (as epitomised by Alessandro Michele’s Gucci and his subsequent minimalist replacement).  TikTok has brought this trend to its viral status with over 35 Billion views.  Let’s be clear: this is clearly a trend.  We need to take the authenticity of Quiet Luxury as seriously as @Gstaadguy.  The hilarious tongue-in-cheek channel making fun of the 1%.  

Gstaadguy - image curtesy of Lux Magazine

The fundamentals of Quiet Luxury are based on excellent intentions: supporting workers' rights, living wages, ethical materials, craftsmanship, and being a conscious consumer who shops for investment and keeps the clothes for a long time, shopping aligned with your values and being aware of over-consumption and where to spend.  All the things we talk about on this blog.  This is real progress.  Sadly, the reality is not aligned with this.  

Upon closer look, many of the Quiet Luxury brands are not ethical, sustainable or, as “good on you” states, “Not taking adequate steps to ensure payment of a living wage for its workers”, “environment rating is very poor”, “it uses a few eco-materials”, “there is no evidence it has taken meaningful action to reduce or eliminate hazardous chemicals”.

Sadly, this is the case for many of the brands mentioned here.

 Yesterday, I saw a lady dressed in this Quiet Luxury aesthetic.  It was beautiful, classic and very chic.  I don’t know what the labels were; nothing was branded except for her well-worn, never-full LV.  She clearly always dressed that way; she was at ease and looked comfortable, not out to impress.

In summary, if Quiet Luxury is a positive step forward for fashion or a trend, it is entirely up to us.  We can buy ethical, sustainable fashion and wear it for years.  Or we can dress for a trend created by a TV show and then move on. 

My fabulous upcycled blouse by @DesignBlender

I know what I am doing:- 

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love

Kate xx