How to Start a Sustainable Brand in 2024

Welcome back, Darlings,
Are you looking for a new venture or adventure this year?

Have you had some dreams you want to fulfil and a place to express your style vision?

Are you ready to take the first step?

Is this your year to make your mark in the fashion world, and are you committed to doing it consciously and ethically?

We’ve got you!

Photo by Ray Piedra

I have been advising people and brands just like you to do just that. 

After much reflection and consideration, here is my take on:

THE FIVE STEPS TO CREATING AN ETHICAL AND FINANCIALLY SUSTAINABLE BRAND IN 2024.

VISION - Your “WHY”. 

What is your vision for the future of fashion?  Is it relevant and robust enough to create an impact and sustain you financially, mentally, and spiritually as you grow and develop?  Get clear on WHY you want to do this and the differences you want to make in your life and the lives of those involved with your Brand—everyone: Customers, Suppliers and Workers, Employees, Designers, Investors, your family and friends.  The Vision is critical to the foundation and fundamentals of how you will create, operate and deliver your message and products.

Image by Polina Zimmerman

Here are a few areas to consider: empowering creatives, replacing materials made from fossil fuels, building an environment of empowerment and respect, transparency, clean water, and education.  My own vision is for beauty to be created and expressed through art and fashion by bringing awareness to nature and the systems of nature.  To inspire, empower and transform.

CUSTOMER, CLIENT OR MUSE. 

You need a customer to sell to.  You may be your first customer, as you have a problem you need to solve.  Maybe it is a specific performance requirement for sport or lifestyle (like clothing that keeps you cool while you exercise and helps you recover after the sport) or something you always wanted to make you feel great (a gorgeous bag made in a community and not from a large luxury goods company).  Whatever it is, get clear on your customer - so clear you know what they would want for lunch.  Who is he or she, and will they buy your products, accessories, education, or services?  Why will they buy this, and how will it make them feel?  There are so many products and services available; what differentiates your offer?

My customers would be those who want products that inspire them to be greater versions of themselves.  Fashion has historically been exclusive; I would seek to create love and connection.

COMMITMENT FOR CONTRIBUTION.

Consider and be clear on the difference and impact you want to make for the future of fashion.  There are so many “things” on this planet; we do not need more cheap fashion or accessories.  Everything created needs a reason for being, a purpose, a contribution to the earth and the future of fashion.  For example, replacements for polyester materials, upcycling, crafts, artisanal techniques, and rewarding and empowering working conditions.

Photo by Maria Orlova

My commitment to contribution is to upcycle beautiful items from the past and give them beauty and life—the revival and awareness for fine tailoring and techniques of the past made by craftspeople.

HERO PRODUCT.

If you could only have one product, what would it be?  An impeccable, ethically sourced sweater with a circular return system, where the wool is reused in a magical way?  Whatever the product, it must have some positive impact on the planet, creating a legacy, educating and impacting life, not fashion for the sake of it.

Mine would be a beautiful dress taken from the past (an existing dress or dresses), with beautiful techniques, customised for the client.  Demi-couture without couture costs: a carefully created selection of clothing which gives life to the fashion of the past with love and respect. 

Repurposed Dress and Fabric created by DesignBlender

COACH, MENTOR OR COMMUNITY. 

Have someone who is an expert in the area and can support you clearly and concisely.  This is such a vital part of your life and future.  Being surrounded by and connected with someone or some people who can make it easier is invaluable.  Get one now or join my upcoming community in February 2024.

Whatever you are committed to, you are an essential part of the creation of the future of fashion.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love and best wishes for 2024

Kate x

Sustainable Style: Leading the future of Fashion in 2024.

We are all at the start of another new year - 2024.  I am sure you are all very much looking forward to an extraordinary year ahead; I certainly am.

At this point, let’s look back at 2023. It’s been a bit of a mixed bag.  We have seen some significant initiatives, a greater commitment to sustainability, and we’ve also seen the antithesis of that.  We have seen some extraordinary brands grow and evolve.  We have witnessed revenge shopping and travel and the end of that, too. In this blog, I have written about all kinds of things, extraordinary startups in the sustainability world, and how Brands have missed their targets or objectives for Sustainability.  There is excitement for the future and also the fears and trepidation of what the year may bring.  After all, 2023  was the hottest year on record.  Climate change is real, and we have all experienced its effects.

The Stelar Team

Here is a question for you:

“If you could all wave a magic wand over 2024, how would you create it to be?”

I will list the questions below so we can all work together to answer this (as the content I write is just my opinion); I’m sure you have some great ideas of your own. 

Let’s have fun, love life and enjoy fashion.

QUESTION 1: TRANSPARENCY - One of the key headlines for this year is transparency. 

“Do you really want to know where your clothing is coming from?  Would that change your buying habits? Would it make you more conscious?  How much do you care, and what would you be willing to change to make this happen?”

 It is important to me that I’m conscious about what I’m buying.  I don’t always read all the provenance labels, but then I am quite aware of where and how things have been made.  What’s very important for me is for the supply chain to be compliant and for the people to be taken care of in making them.  I don’t purchase from places where I know the workers' rights, conditions, and pay are sketchy and the supply chain is unclear.

If I could wage a magic wand on Fashion this year, there would be a lot more clarity from Brands and Businesses on Transparency so, as consumers, we know where our purchases came from.

QUESTION 2: CIRCULARITY OR END OF LIFE - This is a huge consideration for the Future of Fashion.  

“How can we dispose of our clothes consciously?”  “Is this important to you?”

This is a consideration we could benefit so greatly from.  The waste to landfill of clothing remains significant.  Whilst substantial restrictions will be implemented in the EU, other geographies are nowhere near resolving this; in fact, this is a global issue.  For many people, it is hard to know where and how to dispose of their old clothing consciously.  Do Charities and NGOs want or need them?  Is resale a solution, and can they really be recycled?

If I could wave a magic wand, I would have many products available with a robust and transparent “end of life or circular solution” built in and available at purchase.

QUESTION 3: EDUCATION THROUGH COLLABORATION - a powerful potential for the future of fashion.

“How do we educate consumers of Fashion to be more conscious and aware?”

Sustainable Fashion has its own language, which can be confusing, and it is easy to fall for greenwashing or think everything is greenwashing.

I constantly talk about Sustainable Fashion to others (friends, family, clients).  Many think they have to stop shopping or feel guilty, don’t know what to do, or don’t know the best solution.

If I could wave a magic wand over this area, I would provide easy and fun education, making it available at scale.  A type of education that would make consumers more aware, help brands become sustainable, and work with startups to create a robust, sustainable roadmap for their brand or business.  Watch this space - because this is coming soon!

QUESTION 4: ENCOURAGE BRANDS WITH PURPOSE - a powerful force for the future of fashion.

“How do we support and promote Brands and Businesses with a mission and commitment to making the world and fashion a better place?”

Do you prefer to buy from Brands or Businesses with a commitment and who strive to impact the world for the better?  These smaller Brands are often not easily seen or accessed.  Brands that are contributing to communities, creating awareness, and innovating for material sustainability are so critical to the future of the planet.

In this area, I would wave my magic wand to have these small giants be seen and championed.  To have them brought to the forefront by amazing collaborations with Luxury Goods Companies or other large brand groups.  Bringing their innovations and superpowers into view and experience at scale for the greater good of the future of fashion.

The new year, 2024, will bring many experiences and circumstances, some we like and others we do not.  However, we all have the power to make an impact through our purchasing and how we choose to consume.  Let’s make a huge difference this year.  

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

I hope you all have a wonderful New Year’s Eve and all the very best for 2024.

Love, Kate x

CONSCIOUS CHRISTMAS GIFTING: Alternatives for mass shopping.

It’s that time of year again when we need to give gifts to our friends and family, clients, and pets, and I’m certain you’re looking at other ways to share your love and best wishes for the festive season with those people in your life so let’s have a look at some great opportunities for conscious gift giving.

1. UPCYCLED/RECYCLED GIFTS: As a regular reader of this blog, I’m sure you’re not surprised by this one.  I love to create new fashion from my old fashion, and being able to give these services as a gift is something I would definitely do. Also, to create something new from things that I had before, it’s really quite magical. Many designers are doing this type of work, and it brings some sense of beauty, heritage, love and extraordinary creativity.

2. ZERO WASTE STARTER KIT:  This is an interesting one. Encourage your friends and family to live consciously by giving them this gift, including bamboo cutlery, reusable straws, reusable water bottles and coffee cups. This curated collection really promotes conscious living when you are faced with only plastic alternatives.

3. ETHICALLY SOURCED TOYS and HOUSEHOLD ITEMS: These are beautiful gifts, always with a rich and inspiring story. I have always bought handmade toys for the children in my life; it gives them a sense of something made with love and not made in bulk by a machine. Other ideas include hand-made ceramics, artwork, and lovely craft items. Not only are these memorable gifts, but they also support artists and craftspeople.

4. EXPERIENTIAL GIFTS: Instead of material possessions, consider gifting experiences which promote sustainability. Such as cooking classes with locally sourced ingredients, outdoor tours focused on conservation and memberships to conservation organisations. These gifts are both educational and contribute to important activities.

5. CREATE YOUR OWN GIFTS: I have done this. As an Artist, my Artwork is something friends and family love to receive. There are many other opportunities to learn something new and create beautiful gifts. Other items I have given and received are music, astrology readings, handmade candles, cookies and cakes, curated photos from shared trips, poetry and kombucha.

Through conscious gift-giving, we’re not only sharing material goods but also advocating for a more conscious lifestyle and providing opportunities for educating ourselves in new ways. We are sharing our vision of a mindful lifestyle with others in a gentle and supportive way. We all want to enjoy the festive season and life fully without exhausting everyone’s finances and time. There are lots of opportunities to give consciously. Please enjoy doing just that. 

 As always, love life and enjoy Fashion.

Kate xx

Is Fashion going to destroy the planet?

This blog talks a lot about the future of fashion, sustainability, new ways to be more conscious consumers, and to define how to enjoy fashion without compromising our ethical and moral standards.

However, having worked as a fashion industry senior executive for a number of years, I have experienced that when business gets bad, a lot of that can be (let’s say) deprioritised. Do we ever really face the reality of the “true cost”, or do we just look for the optimal margin and prioritise other costs—a Business rather than a Planet-first approach. Let’s look at a few further examples.

Recently, there’s been quite substantial news on fashion businesses and brands not meeting their sustainability targets and getting up to their old tricks, including a BBC Panorama Documentary reported on Boohoo pressuring suppliers to reduce already confirmed contract prices for products.  

 A recent New York Times article announced:

“SHEIN aims to win over Wall Street and Washington”.  This really had me question whether the fashion industry has made much progress at all when it comes to Sustainability. The article discusses the potential of an IPO for SHEIN in the US and the ways that the company has taken significant measures to detach itself from ties with China, including moving its headquarters to Singapore and opening operations in Ireland in Indiana, as well as hiring a number of lobbyists in the US.

Are consumers and business people so easy to fool, or is it just that they want to be fooled?  There’s one quote that sums it up. “Shein is hoping that investors will welcome an IPO.  Bankers had hoped that the long-moribund market for new listings would reopen this fall…”

A recent article from the “Business of Fashion” asked why big brands are unable to meet the 2030 targets they committed to in “UN Fashion Charter for Climate Action”. Nine of the brands, including Kering, Nike, Puma and Inditex, saw that overall emissions declined between 2018 and the end of 2022 (much of that must have been due to the pandemic), but only Levis, Ralph, Loren and Gap are on a trajectory to reduce emissions enough to achieve that 2030 commitment analysis has found.

“It is interesting to note that fast fashion companies are showing more progress than luxury or athletic businesses with Chanel LV, MH, and Lululemon, all having had increased manufacturing emissions since 2019.” Literally no progress!

Another “BoF” article posed the question, “…are consumers sold on design and price more than sustainability?” It also went on to state that the trend for the reduction in carbon emissions is going in the wrong direction, and the proportion of materials getting a second life through recycling has declined by 20% in the last five years. This takes me back to my question: “Is anybody really interested in sustainability, and should we just forget it altogether?”

So where is all of this going? Are we destined to destroy the planet with all the Fashion we keep buying? I want to wrap this blog up with a nice, positive ending. Guys, I really want to have an answer, but I don’t right now. Let’s keep creating something in the future.

 Love you all and welcome all your questions.

FASHION ROUND-UP - What's happening now…

Welcome back to another blog on the interesting and varied activities in the fashion world. This week, I'm trying this out as a direction for this newsletter, and I am interested in seeing how it works and how much you, as an audience, appreciate it.

New Luxury Trends

The luxury world has seen some recent changes and some new beginnings. We saw the return of the phenomenal Phoebe Philo in the luxury world. The highlights of that are: it was launched quietly, with no social media, just a link to a website, and within hours, it was sold out. The stand-outs were that this is an aesthetic and a level of luxury that people have really wanted, with many of her former fans saying they would only buy something after the launch. The netizens had varied complaints and discussions regarding the high price point, but clearly, there is an audience for that kind of intelligent women's fashion and the welcome return of an industry favourite.

In a similar vein, "The Row" has seemed to grow and grow due to its association with quiet luxury and definitely not the celebrity status of its owners (the Olsen twins). This brand has been a "slow fashion" version of high-end luxury with quiet branding, an absolute wild card focusing on quality, and a sense of "if you know, you know" branding and anti-social media. This is very interesting and very reassuring.

These three women are at the pinnacle of luxury goods, independently owned brands not part of one of the mega luxury goods companies. However, sadly, one of our favourite female designers, Sarah Burton, stepped down as Creative Director of Alexander McQueen, ending a long-established connection with the extraordinary founder. Let's see what happens at McQueen and what the future looks like now that his protégé is no longer a part of its creative vision.

Louis Vuitton Men’s Show in Hong Kong

Talking of luxury and those big mega-luxury groups, Louis Vuitton is collaborating with Hong Kong group K11 and the billionaire Cheng family. They had a Harbourfront Louis Vuitton men's Pre-Fall fashion show with the relatively newly appointed Pharrell at the end of November. Hong Kong has long been associated with luxury goods and luxury tourism. Sadly, the harsh COVID-19 curbs have been a huge deterrent for tourists and travellers from overseas. Clearly, the city is trying to claw back some of its earlier fame. I'm sure the city will be awash with celebrities, and it would be good to see that vibe being present once more in the city.

Fast Fashion M&A

From luxury goods to fast fashion, recently, there have been a lot of mergers and acquisitions of fast fashion players; as the "Business of Fashion" called it, "fast fashion's M&A frenzy". Shein has acquired Misguided from Frasers Group, and ASOS has, apparently, been looking to sell Top Shop. ASOS and Boohoo Group are facing a lot of investor pressure. ASOS has seen a fall of 10% year on year with $39 million in losses, and its stock price has been trading a 14-year loan. These challenges have also been faced by the Boohoo Group. Shein is basically taking over with the mega-low prices and speed to market and making other fast fashion brands obsolete. Oh dear! TikTok and Shein are a lethal combination for any competitor to them.

The Future of Sustainable Fashion

This brings me to my final topic, the future of fast fashion. Sadly, last month, there was a rather depressing article from the Guardian, "Fashion’s efforts to go green cancelled out by shopaholics" - stating that a WRAP report notes that the 12% reduction in carbon impact was negated by a 13% rise in textiles produced and sold. Companies that have reduced the carbon impact of their textiles have basically been overwhelmed by the increase of fast fashion, including our friends from the previous point. Shein, among others, but not just them.

So, there's a lot in this newsletter; it covers the significant topics currently at play in the industry. Where does that leave you? Are you uplifted, inspired, depressed or wondering what's next? Nevertheless, fashion is a global expression for all of us, including those who say they opt out of every communication. Every action is communication, and whatever happens, adds another dimension to life on this planet.

Thank you for reading.

And as always, have fun and enjoy fashion.

Kate x