Is New Valentino Like Old Gucci

Hello Darlings!

Welcome back and welcome to another blog from the Future of Fashion, a place where we can magically impact the future of fashion, beauty and creativity for all living creatures.

This week, we are diving into another Fashion Newsflash! The new Valentino Collection, which made its debut this week. 

In this blog, we have discussed the impact of Alessandro Michele and his tenure at Gucci.  His career as Gucci’s Creative Director, spanning from January 2015 to November 2022, left a significant mark on the fashion industry.  There has been a lot of discussion about whether he should have left Gucci and how the new Gucci era is more like Prada.  However, that is a topic for another blog.  Earlier this year, in April 2024, he was announced as the new Creative Director for Valentino, a move that has sparked anticipation for the brand's future under his leadership as he replaces the extraordinary Pierpaolo Piccioli.  

This week, Michele surprised everyone during Milan’s Men’s Resort 2024 Fashion Week (the same day as the Gucci Show).  “Despite not slated to deliver anything until his first runway show at September's Paris Fashion Week, Michele caught everyone off guard (in a good way) with his unexpected resort 2025 collection, which ran to a whopping 171 looks”.  The presentation covered looks for both men and women.  The noise from social and traditional media was deafening.  The main statements being: “It’s just like Gucci” and “Gucci at Valentino”.  

My lovely, considered Italian Intern declared how beautiful the collection was and how it had taken the Garavani Designs of the 1970s and brought them up to date.  This was the most aware remark I heard of the collection and provided me with the space to look closer.  Indeed, the looks were very ‘70s Valentino, executed in Michele’s maximalist aesthetic.  Since then, I have seen posts and videos from serious fashion influencers, including @Bryanboy, @ideservecouture and @fashionroadman.  All of whom had created content to show how the Michele “New Valentino Collection” is not “Old Gucci”.  

There are a few considerations to consider here. Firstly, why is everyone such a fashion expert, and why do they not go deeper into the archive to understand what is really going on?  Social media, Tim Tok, YouTube Shorts and Reels have made us so fast to judge what we see in front of us. Indeed, Alessandro Michele's maximalism is right there in this Valentino Collection.  That alone would confirm the “Gucci-ness”.  However, that is more Michele than Gucci.  We could say that Michele brings his aesthetic to the brand, and they use it for excitement and sales.  As a decorative, romantic Roman who loves the ‘60s and ‘70s, Michele is probably more suited to Valentino than he was to the Florentine looks of Gucci.  

Back to the Fashion commentary…  With so many loud opinions on social media, it is hard for any designer.  Recently, with the news of Virginie Viard leaving Chanel, there was so much commentary about how bad she is as a designer.  I had planned to write a blog about the possible new Chanel designer, but I could not face it after witnessing the harsh criticism.  Susie Lau @susiebubble wrote a post about the judgement of Virginie Viard and how tough it is for women designers.  Let’s give these talented people some support and enjoy their designs. 

The job of a Creative Director is a great one, but it also comes with such pressure to perform.  We have seen such a lot of change in the Luxury Fashion Brands.  Gucci, Chanel, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Chloe, and Givenchy all changing their designers.  Everything in the world is changing and shifting these days, and fashion is a reflection of this.  

Now, let’s look forward to the new era of Alessandro Michele at Valentino.  Valentino with Pierpaolo Piccioli was beautiful and inspiring but apparently not commercially successful enough.  Valentino had tremendous success in the “Rocketed” era.  Since then, there have not really been any ready-to-wear clothing hits or “must-have” accessories.  This will certainly change with Michelle at the helm. 

The bags are certainly going to be miraculous.  Michele is an accessories designer; he will definitely be putting out some iconic bags.  We have seen that the first collection has some future icons.  I can see myself buying a bag, yet the initial offering shows some incredible coats and ‘60s-style suits. 

The collections will have the maximalism of Michele (and “Old Gucci”) with the feminine beauty of Valentino.  Remember, Jackie (Kennedy) Onassis was a big Valentino fan.  She married Aristotle Onassis in a short Valentino Dress.  She was instrumental in securing Valentino’s place as a celebrity designer.  I am certainly looking forward to this era of iconic glamour and chicness.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

Hong Kong Sustainable Fashion Designers

Hong Kong has a surprisingly high number of sustainable designers and businesses focusing on sustainable fashion and homeware.  Why would that be?  

Historically, Hong Kong has been a centre of fashion, innovation and manufacturing. Therefore, Hong Kong plays a leading role in the industry's future.

People living in Hong Kong are very business-focused, constantly creating something new and looking for what is next. Alternatively, they are purely fulfilling something that they dream about achieving.  

In this newsletter, we will examine a few success stories of people who have made their dreams a reality. There are some incredibly inspiring entrepreneurs and creators here.  I am blessed to know some of them, and they inspire me every day.

“The Hula” is definitely my favourite preloved or resale site and business.  They sell an extraordinary array of pre-owned, authenticated designer clothing and accessories.  Founder Sarah Fung has built a community and a following that is extraordinary.  She has created an industry-leading business with some of the best pieces you can possibly find.  At best, I find preloved clothing challenging; the smell of other peoples’ clothes is always present in a shop environment.  Sarah and her amazing team make shopping preloved a truly luxurious experience.  Sarah has made the art of being a community-based founder with a connection to her customers totally effortless.  She creates and curates amazing panels, workshops and events to champion other sustainable and innovative brands and businesses.  Having a “more of us is better” mindset.  Her values are genuinely all about leadership and excellence.  Being with Sarah makes you feel like she has been your friend for years.  What an inspiration and shining light.

“Malabar Baby” is one of Hong Kong’s more recent and brilliant sustainable brands.  An organic baby-wear brand that has grown to incorporate beautiful homeware and lifestyle products.  Their founder, the incredible Anjali Harjani, is one of the most inspiring women I know.  She is constantly creating the next level of beauty and authenticity in her business and life.  I met Anjali several years ago through a mutual friend.  Recently, we met and created some inspiring, fun projects.  I always felt that Malabar Baby was not a brand for me - I don’t have children - but Anjali reminded me how much my beloved dog, Lotus, loves her Malabar Baby cot quilt.  I recently bought a gift for friends and was blown away by the exceptional service, quality of products and commitment to excellence.  I am now shopping for homeware and ready to buy and gift so much more from this authentic and stunning brand.  Founded in Malabar Hills, Mumbai, the brand creates products using sustainable materials and processes and keeping the traditional techniques of India, such as block printing, alive.  Well done Anjali. 

The “R Collective” was created by Hong Kong-based charity Redress in 2017. It advocates for a circular fashion system by taking dead-stock materials and making them into new items for sale. Founder Doctor Christina Dean has led the charge for sustainable fashion beyond Hong Kong to the world for two decades. She is the Founder of Redress, an NGO that educates designers and consumers on circular fashion.  

 It would be fair to say that Doctor Christina Dean has created an environment where other sustainable fashion businesses can thrive. 

Fashion Clinic—“We are fashion surgeons, here to give clothes a second chance at life.”

This is a collective founded by designers Matt Hui and Kay Wong.  They are committed to saving the fashion industry from its “sickness”.  They provide a “WARDROBE AWAKENING” service, taking items from your wardrobe and giving them a new life.  They collaborate with brands and successfully collaborate with industry heavyweights like Adidas and Calvin Klein.  I personally had a blazer upcycled by Matty.  He took images from my own art and made them into beautiful embroideries and beadwork.  The blazer was slightly too big and had some marks on the sleeves, but the upcycling was transformational, creating a work of art from my ill-fitting jacket. 

While researching this, we found so many other designers. Hong Kong's commitment to the future of fashion is moving and profound.

Here are a few more sustainable designers and brands, all exploring ways to create a new way forward. 

  • Basics for Basics: Established by Kyla Wong.  Basics for Basics is committed to creating an impact by using dead-stock fabrics and sustainable materials to create beautiful designs.

  • Kitdo: Created by designer Denise Ho. “Kitdo is an innovative and consciously-produced styling piece made with lightweight aluminium and strong magnet inserts. Plated with a waterless coating, namely PVD, the beautifully designed accessory is crafted individually with the CNC machine process”.  It provides a versatile accessory, enabling you to wear your clothing in a myriad of ways.

  • PYE: Helmed by Hong Kong businesswoman Dee Poon from the Equal Group Family.  They are dress shirt specialists, producing classic shirts for men with a sustainable “seed-to-shirt” philosophy. “From farming their own cotton in Xinjiang, spinning the yarn with extra long staple cotton, to cutting and sewing their patterns, the brand offers an eco-conscious alternative to typical formal attire”. 

  • Classics Anew: Founded in 2014 by Janko Lam as a finalist in the REDRESS Awards.  The commitment is to create exceptional Chinese classic clothing whilst “minimising water and energy consumption, as well as reducing our carbon footprint during the production process”.  Not only are they sustainable, but they are also continuing traditional techniques and crafts from the exquisite tradition of Chinese clothing.  

I am sure that if I went to any city, I would find a surprising number of sustainable designers and brands.  However, this is Hong Kon, and I am very familiar with the city and its fast pace. 

The commitment of these brands and businesses is truly moving and an extraordinary example of the future of fashion.  Wherever we can, let’s support these businesses and make an impact!

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

Fashion Trends

Hi Darlings,

Welcome back, and welcome to another blog from the Future of Fashion, a place where we get to magically impact the future of fashion, beauty, and creativity for all living creatures.

Sustainable Fashion Trends 

As you heard from the previous blog, I have been talking about fashion with Gen Zers and exploring how they dress, shop and consume fashion. I have experienced some learnings that show the completely stark differences from previous generations, especially Gen X.

Firstly, why are people from younger generations so interested in fashion sustainability?  Gen Z consumers demand transparency, ethical practices, and reduced ecological footprints from brands.  

However, NEW is not considered the best (or most aspirational) option.  As I grew through fashion, we aspired for new and designer, as aspirational as possible.  I have worked my way through many designers on a consistent drive for cool, edgy and new.  Yet this group's first choice is always vintage, thrifted or secondhand.  That is considered the most aspirational or coolest.  I do wonder if this generation aspires in the way we have before.  Do they associate cost with value, or is it something else?

So here we are, looking at the popular trends for Summer 2024.

Yet, for me, these are revisited trends from years of shopping fashion. I wish I had kept every trend, as I would have something in my wardrobe for most of the trends listed below.

So, let’s have some fun and take a journey through the trends of Summer 2024 and some of my own reflections.

  • TOTAL DENIM:  I have worked in high-end denim.  I had a time when I worked with many high-end fashion retailers to make products in the denim category.  We loved “Paul & Joe”, “True Religion”, and “7 for all Mankind”.  Especially “Diesel” and “Miss Sixty”, who brought so much excitement and the start of fast fashion in denim.  The jeans explosion probably started with Tom Ford showing extraordinary, decorated low-slung jeans at Gucci.  Followed by the eclectic decorated jeans you could buy in Notting Hill in London.  I really feel this trend is strongly returning.  The silhouette of the Y2K was wide jeans and cargos with a small top.

  • BALLET FLATS:  This was a massive trend from 2006-2007-ish.  Amy Winehouse notoriously wore ballet flats all the time.  So many brands embraced them fully.  “Repetto” was a huge brand in this category.  However, Miu Miu really took the shoe to a new level.  I had a couple of pairs from Miu Miu; they were highly practical for everyday wear.  So why are they making a comeback?  Miu Miu is very popular again; this aesthetic has that cool girl, ingenue, cute vibe.  Ballet flats totally fit there.  Also, trainers have gone off-trend, and we do need a flat replacement.  The ballet flats we see now are either very exaggerated “ballerina show” or a more urban version of Khaite and Alaia.

  • URBAN MINIMAL: It is expected that quiet luxury will evolve into quiet outdoor, and, probably, many pieces will come from the world of vintage.  It is 25 years since the tragic death of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.  Images of her style have been hugely popular recently.  Her minimal style, a wardrobe made of measured volumes, simple, almost austere lines, black tailored trousers, white shirts, leopard print, some Yohji, denim and monochromatic t-shirts, ballet flats, headbands worn with small sunglasses.  That 90s minimal style with a surprising edginess.  

  • A NOD TO THE 80s:  characterised by a return to power dressing and outfits suitable for the working day.  Strong tailoring from designers such as Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Mugler, Versace and Alaïa during the 1980s & 90s.  The suit feels really new again, as do strong jewel colours.  It was inevitable we would want tailoring after years in leggings and athleisure.  It is so cool to see the essence of Diana, Princess of Wales, being so present in fashion.  Whenever I see the influencer Xenia Adonts posts on IG, her hair is so reminiscent of Diane—a new era of that glamorous, tailored dressing up.  It would be a fantastic investment if you could get your hands on some vintage tailoring from that era.  Hopefully, you have a family member who has pieces in their wardrobe.  I don’t have anything from that era, but I do have a 1999 Armani suit, which is so cool now.

  • KITTEN HEELS & SLING BACKS are back.  They sit so well with all of the above trends—the 90s Minimal sandals or slides.  The kitten heel is an elegant and practical shoe.  Prada launched a kitten heel slingback in the nineties; it was literally “the shoe of the decade”.  It was the fashion shoe that everyone wore.  Manolo Blahnik and many other designers appeared at that time.  The nineties saw the arrival of “Sex and the City”.  Carrie Bradshaw and her shoe obsession.  Prior to that, expensive designer shoes were not a thing.

Fashion trends weave a journey from the past to the future. This journey is really an opportunity to understand so much more about ourselves, others, culture, the past, and why we wore things or dressed that way.

Does fashion connect us with the past and the future at the same time?

Is fashion a way to understand more about other generations?

Fashion is a sociological and cultural expression, not purely a driver of consumption.

The history of fashion is a fascinating subject.

Which part of that history is your favourite?

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

Optimistic Nihilism

Hello, Darlings!

Welcome to another blog from the Future of Fashion, a place where we get to impact the future of fashion, beauty, and creativity for all living creatures in a magical way.  This week, we discuss an interesting and philosophical subject.

You may be wondering what OPTIMISTIC NIHILISM is.

“Optimistic nihilism is the ability of a person to create his own meaning after fully accepting that the universe is a large place of meaninglessness."

So that is what it means, but why are we discussing it? I had a very interesting conversation with two Gen Zers about fashion and their approach to it. The above term emerged from it. Their view of fashion was very different from mine.  

Their lives have been filled with stories of doom and impending disaster.  Climate change, war, economic troubles.  Not a lot of hope, growth, and excitement.  As it concerns fashion, they have both lived through an era of everything being available to them all at once, a life filled with social media and an overload of information concerning the fashion they can buy and the damage this fashion has on the environment.  On top of that, just how doomed we are as a species, and that there is generally “NO HOPE”.  

By contrast, my experience of life has been rather one of “capitalist naiveté”.  We thought more was better.  Growth was good.  We experienced the era of iconic designers - Galliano, McQueen, Tom Ford, to name a few.  The supermodels and fashion magazines.  The colossal growth of fast fashion and the luxury goods industry.  Everything was positive, and life was good until we saw the impact.  Now, we feel our own sense of guilt and reason that “we didn’t know any better”.  

I love to bring philosophy to fashion, and this conversation gave me an extraordinary opportunity. I have always been interested in new, better, cool, and exciting things others don’t have. I no longer follow that.  Maturity and an awareness of sustainable fashion have shifted my focus. Yet my Gen Z friends have a different approach, one that I could say is more mature and empowering.

Using fashion as a tool is transformational and empowering.  Crafting a persona or image you want to project to the world.  Through fashion, I still have control over my impact on life and the environment.  So, there may be terrible things happening in the world that we really cannot control, but fashion provides a place for optimism and fun. Precisely aligned with my philosophy, “have fun, love life, and joy fashion”.  To be clear, they are activists in their own way. They are not burying their heads in the sand from the state of the world; instead, they are impacting through their own power and enjoying that.

Whilst this is not a conclusive view of this Generation, it does give some understanding of the behaviours of this group.  The two I spoke with engaged in fashion in the following ways

  • Always secondhand/thrifted first, no cycling through trends 

  • They both buy fast fashion but keep these items for years 

  • They mend and alter clothes rather than buy something new.  

  • They share clothes with their family and friends.  

There is no sense of real ownership, which I found hard to understand. I find myself very attached to my own clothes. What I really liked was their clear sense of personal identity, as opposed to the need to be told what is cool, fashionable, or what they need to wear.

Recently, I have been bewildered by the massive growth of Shein and other recent fast-fashion groups, whose growth has been largely fuelled by social media platforms. I constantly wonder how consumers can mindlessly buy without concern for the impact on the environment.  

“Major environmental issues associated with fast fashion brands like SHEIN, like water pollution, greenhouse gas emissions, exposure to toxic chemicals, excessive textile waste and production of tons of carbon dioxide every year, are only a few consequences of SHEIN's unsustainable practices.”

Shein Textile waste, credit photo: Earth.Org

You can’t ignore this. Now I see that consumers must either choose to be blissfully unaware or consider that they cannot impact the state of the world and can just enjoy some cheap fashion while the planet burns.  

I have found Gen Z very different and fascinating as a generation.  As I have been writing this blog, I was reminded of something - my favourite stoic - Marcus Aurelius.

“You have power over your mind, not outside events. Realise this, and you will find strength.” Marcus Aurelius – Self Awareness

What a wonderful reminder of how fascinating the world around us is.  Engage with fellow humans of any age, race and origin; there is so much to learn from each other.  Always be prepared to have your own opinions and actions challenged.  Explore new philosophies and ways of living.

As this relates to fashion, there are many ways we can learn from this conversation.  We don’t need expensive brands to feel or look good.  There are so many beautiful and valuable items in secondhand stores.  We can take something, make it our own and then share it with others.  

Most importantly,  create and craft your own image—one that empowers you and one which you love.  You are whole and perfect, just as you are.  Enjoy being the best version of yourself.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

The Importance Of A Powerful Mindset

When starting any new venture, business, or project in life, our mindset is critical to success. Nowadays, there is so much more awareness of the power of mindset, positive thinking, and intentionality. These states and approaches positively impact our results in life and also our quality of life. So, let’s look a little deeper at the impact of a powerful mindset.

I am a big “action-taker”.  I believe that by taking action, we can impact almost everything and cause results.  I do believe that causing results is a good thing, and being effective is so important.  I also believe that hard work is really important in life.  My father always taught me the profound value of hard work.  My career has been a repeating cycle of tremendous hard work and grind, achieving results and making things happen.   

Recently, I have come across other schools of thought.  These have risen somewhat as a counter to the “hustle culture”.  These philosophies show how we can manifest and create any outcome for ourselves and our lives.  Many originate from “The Secret” by Rhoda Byrne or “The Law of Attraction” by Esther and Jerry Hicks, who were the powerful writers and speakers on these subjects.  Whilst many people may not believe these are effective and find them too “woo-woo”, there is clearly so much value in this work.

So, could we create everything we want in life and business without the hustle, stress and sacrifice?   From my own experience, I conducted a human experiment.  I kind of brain-washed myself for positivity, effectiveness and success.  

I had always had a weak relationship with belief and faith, as in how things would work out “for the best”. You could say, “I did not trust the Universe”.  I honestly believed things would only work out if I did everything I could to impact the result.  Although this was effective, it was exhausting.

Back in 2020, when it felt that the world was falling apart, I was quite anxious (as were many of us).  I realised this was not going to help my life and situation.  There was not much we could do to affect the outside world during lockdowns and limited movement.  I had to create a new approach.  So, I literally brainwashed myself for success and peace of mind.  I started with daily meditations, visualisations and affirmations.  Then to breathwork, singing bowls, constellation work and anything that could clear my mental state to take me somewhere else.  

This is more than just a nice idea; there is actually a “science of positive thinking”.  

“Your thoughts activate neurotransmitters - chemicals responsible for most of your anatomical functions from digestion to hormone regulation.  Positive thoughts can inspire physiological and cognitive benefits such as reduced stress, lower fatigue, and elevated hormone levels that make you happy or sad.”

So, what was the result of my experiment?  I find so much more ease in life.  When I have ease in life, I am present and can focus on what I have to do, but so much more than that, I actually can be present in the beauty of life.  We have to get things done every day, so having a powerful mindset makes for a more successful and more enjoyable life.  

I recently reviewed some goals, dreams and affirmations I created in 2019.  After these years of meditation, visualisation, and the activities that make up my daily routine, most of those goals and dreams have come true.  

In the FASHIONABLE FUTURES SKOOL COMMUNITY, we focus on so much mindset work, exploring what we want and what is important to us when starting or up-levelling a business.  We also do profound work on how to make that happen and to address what gets in the way.

The mindset work in the FASHIONABLE FUTURES Community is so powerful and impactful.

As always, love life, have fun, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx