What Is In My Wardrobe

In the previous blog, we discussed the conflict between concerns about the climate crisis and enjoying engaging in fashion.  How can we make this work and have peace of mind when we dress and enjoy fashion?  Ultimately, it is all about being present and aware of why we are shopping, buying and consuming.  There is nothing wrong with purchasing fashion or anything else; it becomes problematic when it is not conscious and becomes more of a reaction to feeling we need something due to our own personal or sartorial insufficiencies.  What gives us power is knowledge and awareness; this is a superpower for all of life, especially when we look at addressing how we consume fashion.  Always consider - being present and aware is where we are powerful and not dictated to or less than, but rather an opportunity to be someone who is a leader in life.

In the previous blog, I established a methodology for consciously enjoying fashion without guilt and with awareness.  Let’s explore that methodology here and expand on some of the points so you can explore further in your own lives and wardrobes.

 In this blog, we will explore points one to four:

1. Educate yourself on Sustainable Fashion.  

2. Following from point one, form an educated perspective on your sustainable boundaries.  

3. Review your current wardrobe.  

4. Establish an understanding of your personal style.   

Point One - Educate yourself on Sustainable Fashion.  What are the biggest impacts?  There are endless resources everywhere.  

An excellent place to start is here with this blog and my LinkedIn and Instagram posts.  You can also join my upcoming free community; we’ll provide a link for you very soon.  In addition, there are endless resources from BoF, Jeanine Ballone’s LinkedIn posts here, Dana Thomas, Vogue Business, Conscious Fashion Collective, FutureLearn, and The Good Trade.  There are many resources for further understanding the fashion industry's impacts.  Learn as much as possible, explore what inspires you and gain a sustainable fashion education.  As always, knowledge is power.

Point Two - Following from point one, form an educated perspective on your sustainable boundaries.  Maybe you stop buying fast fashion, or you stop buying leather, or you give yourself a ‘no buy’ challenge.  Whatever it is, this is an educated perspective and very valuable.

Explore and consider where you stand regarding the fashion industry - what you will stop doing or start doing.  Are you someone who really cares about the ocean? Learn everything about the impact of plastic and microplastics (among other pollutants) on the oceans.  You then create a plan for reducing your own personal impact or sharing with others to create a project within your family or friend group to do so.  There are many opportunities for this.  You may be someone who loves traditional tailoring techniques and quality fabrics.  You create a philosophy of not buying fast fashion or only buying well-made, single-fibre content so they can be easily recycled.  Or you buy only very well-made clothes which can be kept and worn for many years.  Share this philosophy on social media and inspire others on their own journey.

Point Three - Review your current wardrobe.  If you can, ask someone to work with you to organise it.  Again, there are many free online resources.   

Based on your new philosophy, review and edit your current wardrobe.  This can be very empowering and also overwhelming.  You may find yourself feeling guilty for previous buying habits and for how unconscious you have been.  Try not to get fixated on this; you are doing something now that is important. 

The intention of this wardrobe edit is to give you some power and freedom.  Have an end goal: is it to have a wardrobe that you can easily dress from that also speaks to your personal style and philosophy?  Here are some simple yet excellent steps: 7 practical steps for a wardrobe edit.

Remember - be gentle with yourself.

Point Four - Establish an understanding of your personal style.  Develop your style accordingly.  We fall victim to or are distracted by fashion trends because we are unclear about what suits us.

You may have a clear sense of your personal style.  You may be inspired by urban street fashion - wearing sneakers and oversized cargos or your personal variation.  You may follow a more feminine vibe, like Katie Holmes, with comfortable separates.  Having someone you identify with always helps.  My style code is very clear.  My vibe is glamorous 70s and Tom Ford Gucci.  I love prints and vibrant colours, very little black - chocolate brown and tobacco are my darks.  I don’t look anything like her, but my style icon is Bianca Jagger in the Mick years.  Exotic looks and sharp tailoring interspersed with Zandra Rhodes prints. 

I am very clear on the brands, colours and pieces that work for me.  My go-to Brands for clothes are Magda Buttery, FRS, Missoni, sometimes Simkai, and Gauge 81.  Tailoring is my husband’s tailor - semi-hand-made for me, Saint Laurent jackets.  I know my style and which Brands work.  I recently made contact with an amazing Brand “Sharon Wauchob” and can’t wait to wear her pieces again.  Having this identity means I don’t buy for the sake of it.  I do not impulse buy; I don’t ‘sale’ buy because it is cheaper, and I don’t buy fast fashion.  More than 50% of my wardrobe is over 10 years old, and I wear them.  I treasure my clothes; they are like art to me.  

This is the beginning of a journey into discovering the wardrobe and creating a conscious connection with your clothes in pursuit of discovering your personal style.

Enjoy, as always, and have fun; love life!

Come back next week for more.

Kate

Kate Padget-Koh

Do You Struggle With Fashion?

As a regular reader of this blog, you know I am a fashion lover.  I fell in love with clothes as a child through the sartorial habits, glamour and beauty of my family members.  My mother was always dressed formally and totally on point.  My father wore a wardrobe of British tradition - Church’s brogues and Harris Tweed jackets.  My older sisters wore total aspirational glamour.  I spent hours staring and learning to walk in my sister Chris’s platform sandals.  It was heavenly.  My Aunt was a bespoke ladies' tailoress; she could make anything.  She could cut a pattern from seeing a style on TV or in a movie and create the piece within a few hours.  My life was clearly destined to be living in Fashion.

My career has been only in Fashion, the majority being in Asia, working with Global Brands, experiencing and being part of the incredible growth of the fashion industry and the availability of affordable clothes.

But, during the past decade, I  have been struggling with the Business (I refrain from calling it the Industry).  The massive growth in the Fast Fashion and Luxury goods Industries has been and continues to be relentless.  What was a rather frivolous business in some countries has become a serious margin-generating business.  The niche business of fashion has become an enormous industry.  

Why do I struggle?  I have always wanted the beauty and artistry of fashion to be available for everyone.  It was something I was always committed to.  In my early career years, I worked for low-cost/price-entry stores.  My wish became fulfilled, but at what cost?  This is where the struggle is.  I created the intention of amazing fashion for everyone, and it happened.  It was an exciting journey until it collided with the Climate Crisis!  My love for nature is a huge part of my life.  To see the loves of my life collide so catastrophically was quite something.  I have educated myself in Sustainable Fashion and become something of a spokesperson and educator.  Yet, still, I struggle.  I think many of us fashion lovers do.  We see the beauty and magic of fashion, yet we also see the climatic and environmental impact of this massive industry.

I have asked myself many questions about what is good, what I should be buying or not buying, or engaging in.  Only this year can I see a way forward and have some clarity on how to address this conflict.  It is in my wardrobe.  In the coming blogs, I will explore and discuss the solutions I have found for myself and what I believe to be a methodology for living at ease with fashion and consumption.  To have a sense of love and respect for the planet while enjoying fashion and loving life.

Here are my guidelines; some of you will have seen them already, but they will be updated regularly.  I will explore each section and subject in the coming blogs, so keep reading.

Here we go:

1. Educate yourself on Sustainable Fashion.  What are the biggest impacts?  There are endless resources everywhere.

2. Following from number 1, form an educated perspective on your sustainable boundaries.  Maybe you stop buying fast fashion, or you stop buying leather, or you give yourself a ‘no buy’ challenge.  Whatever it is, this is an educated perspective and very valuable.

3. Review your current wardrobe.  If you can, ask someone to work with you to organise it.  Again, there are many free online resources.

4.  Establish an understanding of your personal style.  Develop your style accordingly.  We fall victim to or are distracted by fashion trends because we are unclear about what suits us.

5.  Challenge yourself to wear your old clothes.  Invent new outfits, be creative and enjoy yourself.

6. Swap clothes with others.

7. Buy from your beloved brands, those you love and identify with—those you will wear for many years and then gift.

8. Upcycle your clothes to give them a new sense of life and creativity.

 9. Feel blessed if you have beautiful vintage.  Wear and enjoy it.

10.  Share your beautiful journey with others, document it and inspire others.

As always, have fun; love life.

Kate
Kate Padget-Koh

How Do We Want to Experience Luxury?

Fashion Month has just finished with much movement in the luxury space during this time.  The usual comings and goings of fashion seem more extreme and potentially more significant right now.  Sarah Burton showed her final collection at Alexander McQueen after an incredible tenure pursuing McQueen’s vision and legacy.  Fabio Zambernardi was showing his last collections at Prada and Miu Miu after a staggering 21 years as Design Director.  Peter Hawkings showed his first collection at Tom Ford, which was exactly Tom Ford recreated or on repeat.  We also saw the new Designer at Gucci Sabato De Sarno’s new collection, which was a completely new direction and feel for the Brand.  There was also the excitement of Phoebe Philo’s impending return to the business.

Gucci SS24. Credits: Lauchmetrics Spotlight

What does this all mean, if anything?  Kering is clearly actively taking measures to transform its business and Brands, with the changes at Gucci and McQueen, as well as the partial investment in Valentino.  Somehow, much of what is happening seems to be an effort to create the glory days of Fashion and the era when “luxury” became a household name and the aspirational consumer was born.  We have collections that display those exact years - Tom Ford and Gucci - which both have very ‘90s-era aesthetics.  Why is this happening, and why is it relevant?  Is there a sense of desperation to recreate the former magic of Luxury?

What is actually going on?  Clearly, there have been changes in consumer behaviours since the pandemic.  There was an expectation that China Tourism would bounce back following the easing of Covid restrictions, but it has not.  The US consumer is not performing in retail sales figures.  People are dealing with the reality of high interest rates and an increased cost of living.  They probably bought many things during lockdown and have now realised they don’t really need things to make them a better person or to feel good.  As I watch influencers with gorgeous lives and huge hauls, I question who else is buying all this stuff.  Simply, I have heard from many people of all ages, income levels and locations that they are all shopping differently.  In a much-reduced way, they want to experience luxury not just through shopping for expensive things but, rather, more of an experience and quality of life.  

So, how do we, as consumers, want to experience luxury now and in the future?  

In this blog, I have previously talked about the future of luxury being authenticity and connection to the consumer rather than owning something from a conglomerate who are noticeably increasing prices while reducing quality.  We discussed “Stelar”, the beautiful, sustainable, very authentic Brand “made in communities, not in factories”. We have also explored upcycling our beloved clothes to give them a new life.  We referred to the Investment in “Pellicano Hotels”, truly indicating the growth of travel and experience over things.  Have we learned something from the challenging times of recent years, realising that experience, time, and memories are true luxuries? 

If we have gained a new perspective in life, towards becoming conscious shoppers, then this is a step forward to the customer of the future.  From this, brands will need to be valuable and authentic and treat us with respect.

Enjoy fashion; love life.

Kate

Kate Padget-Koh

Return To Minimalism: Is it a New Future or Revisiting the Past?

One of the most anticipated shows took place last Friday.  The debut of Gucci’s new Designer Sabato de Sarno.  I did not know what to expect, as I was sad to see the departure of the maximalist darling - Alessandro Michele.  There have been several shows since he left, and not much indication of what the new era would epitomise.  We have seen “GUCCI ANCORA” without much idea of what that intended, and there have been some very classic looks in their newsletters.

GUCCI ANCORA

Friday was the day, and it really was a new look. Or was it?  The opinions of friends were underwhelming - “Nothing much, really”, and “Was that it?”.  I LOVED IT - so fresh and simple, a sigh of relief.  Some said it was like the “Tom Ford Era”.  But not really, much more ‘90s Prada minimalism.  Simple silhouettes, primarily solid colours, the absence of print and over-decoration, and a youthful feeling.

Why is this so appealing? It felt like a palate cleanser from all the Fashion statements and confusion.  It also felt very familiar and somewhat harking back to happier, freer times.  In the ‘90s and early ‘00s, we did not have so many ongoing global crises - climate crisis, extreme weather, war, mass migration, the recent pandemic, not to mention a huge mental health crisis (so many crises in one sentence). 

We all know fashion is cyclical; it always comes around again.  I should have guessed it, really.  I have an uncanny way of feeling what is next for fashion.  I love clothes and expressing myself through what I wear, and recently, I have been wearing my old Prada, Tom Ford Gucci and have upcycled much of my remaining ‘00s pieces.  In addition, I had two trouser suits tailored in the past two years with waistcoats and options for minis and shorts (all based on a 2000 Ford-era Gucci suit).  Seeing this kind of look on the Gucci catwalk was a fabulous surprise.  Somehow, fashion is making sense again.  Through this show and its minimal aesthetic, we can incorporate all our learnings from sustainability (thrifting, vintage, secondhand, etc.), restyle what we already have and then focus on our own well-being and sense of a new future. 

Gucci and Kering have been struggling with sales and profits for the past few Seasons (hence the departure of the formerly beloved Michele).  Francoise Henri Pinault has been making a number of acquisitions to craft a new future for the group.  If we look across the competitor brands - YSL, Chanel, and Celine - they have a clear customer and aesthetic.  They are less drama-driven and more a continuation of a mood.  The YSL chic, sexy Parisian, Celine being the eclectic, boho sibling.  Gucci now needs to find its own new ground.  Is that the intention - to have a clear and constant aesthetic that keeps the customer returning?  Collecting a wardrobe of elevated minimalism?  This will require time and a few seasons to see.  However, it does fit with the recent “quiet luxury” trend from the classic “Succession” fashion brands of “Loro Piana” and “Brunello Cucinello”. 

The last time minimalism was such a big trend was in the ‘90s and early ‘00s.  Prada, Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein.  So what are the economic similarities to now?  We know that people are struggling economically with rising interest rates and energy costs.  Restrictions from the overwhelm of the climate crisis - whether real or self-imposed.  Looking over-dressed and extravagant is never a good thing in these stressful times.  I am sure these clothes from Gucci will not be “recession-core”, but they may provide a sense of ease for the affluent consumer to feel less obvious and excessive.  Or maybe it is just another new trend to make us want more - I sincerely hope not!

However, all subtleties aside, I was pointed towards AVAVAV, who closed Milan Fashion Week.  No subtlety there!  In the FW23 Show, Stockholm-born Beate Karlsson of AVAVAV’s co-ed collection fell apart on the runway.  For SS24, another key statement on the state of the Fashion Industry - Karlsson’s viral show had a model being pushed onto the runway, others with “ADD BACK” or “NO TIME TO DESIGN” statements, all showing the stresses of the speed and lack of time in the Fashion process.  The obvious statement is such a relief from all the pretending to be creating poetry when all that is going on is trying to sell more clothes, bags and shoes.  Whilst AVAVAV’s collection may not be the most commercial, it certainly resonates with the industry.

So, where does that leave us this week?  Fashion does reflect life.  Thankfully, some take it less seriously and are more literal in their Fashion statements.  After all, Fashion is and should always be fun.  Let’s just get more real regarding the impact of Fashion on our lives, the planet and the future.

Love you all

Kate xx

Is Tradition A Way Forward In The Future Of Fashion?

Or Are We Destined To Drown In Fast Fashion?

I have been in Sicily recently on vacation and exploring a few locations around the island.  It was the end of the season, so there were fewer tourists, and it was much quieter.  We went to a stunning beach club and a few classic Sicilian locations.  Italy is a naturally stylish and fashion-focused country, and they have the perfect balance between the future and the traditions of the past, with a clear focus on beauty and style.

During the trip, I also read an interesting article in the  “Monocle Mediterraneo” newspaper called “Catching the Wave”, which explored new swimwear brands from European Designers, including “Pier Sicilia”, the fast-growing “Hunza G” and “Ripa Ripa”.  Two of the brands are Italian, with “Pier Sicilia” incorporating traditional artisan techniques and even the capability to customise swim shorts.  The article was very inspiring, introducing brands with a greater focus on collaboration with artisans, producing locally and being sustainable innovation.  I love high-quality Italian fashion labels, one of my favourites being “For Restless Sleepers”, a stunning, very decorative brand focusing on beautiful pyjamas used for day and evening wear.  They somehow keep themselves something of a secret, away from commercialisation.  Is that a tactic or the result of a smaller supply chain and ability to scale?  Whatever it is, it does provide a sense of “if you know, you know” exclusivity and increased quality.

It is interesting to consider a new brand strategy where it is kept limited and desirable.  Using all levers which normally would limit growth to be the brand assets.  

On the polar opposite, I saw some news from New York Fashion Week —“Pretty Little Thing’s” collaboration with Naomi Campbell.  Later in the week, the amazing Rita Ora’s collaboration with “Primark”.  From reading this blog, you can imagine my reaction to this news: more celebrity name marketing hype for cheap, disposable fashion.  I then saw a post on IG from Steven Meisel’s collaboration with Zara.  British Vogue announces it as “From His Camera To Your Closet – Steven Meisel Teams Up With Zara For A New Collection.”   Clothing created from some of the photographer’s iconic photos during his long partnership with the Brand.  Do we really need any of this in the world?  Especially as the reports loom that London will be facing 45℃ in the coming years.

Fashion month is on, and it gives me such mixed feelings.  I love fashion, newness, creativity and the visions of extraordinary Designers.  Yet, when I see so many shows, presentations and outfit changes by influencers, I wonder where we can go from here.  What is the future of fashion?  Does anyone really consider where all of this stuff goes?  As Annie Leonard, executive director of Greenpeace USA, said, “There is no such thing as “away”.  So, when we throw anything away, it must go somewhere.”  What will happen to all this fashion?  

Hunza G Sustainability

There will undoubtedly be more restrictive measures by governments.  Unfortunately, when it is not affecting their own shores, it is easier to engage in wilful ignorance.  However, the European Parliament are bringing more legislation.

Their press release in April 2023, “Ending fast fashion: tougher rules to fight excessive production and consumption” states:

  • Textile products must last longer and be easier to reuse, repair and recycle 

  • The destruction of unsold or returned textiles should be banned 

  • Human, social and labour rights must be respected during production 

  • Need for binding targets and measures addressing the entire lifecycle of textiles 

So, as a designer now, where do you go with all of this?  Much would be clearly up to your personal concerns and knowledge of sustainability and the fashion industry.  Yet, if I were back at the beginning of my career, I would opt for one or a number of the following :

  • Be an expert in upcycling 

  • Work with artisans and tailors — keep traditions alive. 

  • Be an educator in the impact of fashion — the good, the bad and the ugly.

  • Be an inventor to process some of the waste we have in the textile system 

  • Collaborate and create a vision for the future with others — a movement for the future. 

To quote the amazing Daisy Nelson — Fashion Student : 

“I would start by figuring out the end.
Is my product made to last a long time?
What happens when it is no longer of use?
Is the fabric able to be used in different ways, or would it just go to landfill?|
How much waste am I making?
Are there ways I can combat this with different pattern-cutting techniques or fabric manipulation?

Starting means also understanding the end. You cannot have one without the other.”

Kind regards,
Kate

Kate Padget-Koh