Or Are We Destined To Drown In Fast Fashion?
I have been in Sicily recently on vacation and exploring a few locations around the island. It was the end of the season, so there were fewer tourists, and it was much quieter. We went to a stunning beach club and a few classic Sicilian locations. Italy is a naturally stylish and fashion-focused country, and they have the perfect balance between the future and the traditions of the past, with a clear focus on beauty and style.
During the trip, I also read an interesting article in the “Monocle Mediterraneo” newspaper called “Catching the Wave”, which explored new swimwear brands from European Designers, including “Pier Sicilia”, the fast-growing “Hunza G” and “Ripa Ripa”. Two of the brands are Italian, with “Pier Sicilia” incorporating traditional artisan techniques and even the capability to customise swim shorts. The article was very inspiring, introducing brands with a greater focus on collaboration with artisans, producing locally and being sustainable innovation. I love high-quality Italian fashion labels, one of my favourites being “For Restless Sleepers”, a stunning, very decorative brand focusing on beautiful pyjamas used for day and evening wear. They somehow keep themselves something of a secret, away from commercialisation. Is that a tactic or the result of a smaller supply chain and ability to scale? Whatever it is, it does provide a sense of “if you know, you know” exclusivity and increased quality.
It is interesting to consider a new brand strategy where it is kept limited and desirable. Using all levers which normally would limit growth to be the brand assets.
On the polar opposite, I saw some news from New York Fashion Week —“Pretty Little Thing’s” collaboration with Naomi Campbell. Later in the week, the amazing Rita Ora’s collaboration with “Primark”. From reading this blog, you can imagine my reaction to this news: more celebrity name marketing hype for cheap, disposable fashion. I then saw a post on IG from Steven Meisel’s collaboration with Zara. British Vogue announces it as “From His Camera To Your Closet – Steven Meisel Teams Up With Zara For A New Collection.” Clothing created from some of the photographer’s iconic photos during his long partnership with the Brand. Do we really need any of this in the world? Especially as the reports loom that London will be facing 45℃ in the coming years.
Fashion month is on, and it gives me such mixed feelings. I love fashion, newness, creativity and the visions of extraordinary Designers. Yet, when I see so many shows, presentations and outfit changes by influencers, I wonder where we can go from here. What is the future of fashion? Does anyone really consider where all of this stuff goes? As Annie Leonard, executive director of Greenpeace USA, said, “There is no such thing as “away”. So, when we throw anything away, it must go somewhere.” What will happen to all this fashion?
Hunza G Sustainability
There will undoubtedly be more restrictive measures by governments. Unfortunately, when it is not affecting their own shores, it is easier to engage in wilful ignorance. However, the European Parliament are bringing more legislation.
Their press release in April 2023, “Ending fast fashion: tougher rules to fight excessive production and consumption” states:
Textile products must last longer and be easier to reuse, repair and recycle
The destruction of unsold or returned textiles should be banned
Human, social and labour rights must be respected during production
Need for binding targets and measures addressing the entire lifecycle of textiles
So, as a designer now, where do you go with all of this? Much would be clearly up to your personal concerns and knowledge of sustainability and the fashion industry. Yet, if I were back at the beginning of my career, I would opt for one or a number of the following :
Be an expert in upcycling
Work with artisans and tailors — keep traditions alive.
Be an educator in the impact of fashion — the good, the bad and the ugly.
Be an inventor to process some of the waste we have in the textile system
Collaborate and create a vision for the future with others — a movement for the future.
To quote the amazing Daisy Nelson — Fashion Student :
“I would start by figuring out the end.
Is my product made to last a long time?
What happens when it is no longer of use?
Is the fabric able to be used in different ways, or would it just go to landfill?|
How much waste am I making?
Are there ways I can combat this with different pattern-cutting techniques or fabric manipulation?
Starting means also understanding the end. You cannot have one without the other.”
Kind regards,
Kate
Kate Padget-Koh