Hello, Darlings!
Welcome back, and welcome to another blog from the Future of Fashion, a place where we can magically impact the future of fashion, beauty, and creativity for all living creatures.
This week, we are discussing a visionary subject about visionary and committed people. These are Sustainable Fashion Pioneers, Designers and Brand creators who have led the way through their commitment to Sustainable Fashion, Products and Practices.
While many of you reading this blog will be very aware of sustainable fashion designers, there may be some features you do not know about. I also want to look at these designers within the broader fashion market and environment.
As I often discuss, it is questionable if there is any real progress towards Sustainable Fashion. We know that much of the great work done in sustainable fashion by brands such as Stella McCartney and Patagonia can be immediately upended by a few months of SHEIN and other fast fashion giants. While “Gen Z consumers are more concerned about climate change and social and ethical issues, their environmental awareness is significant. Nevertheless, their values do not always translate into sustainable consumption behaviour; their role as heavy consumers in the fast fashion market is proof of this.” (ResearchGate).
So, for those of us passionate about the Future of Fashion and its sustainability, this is a big challenge. From my own personal philosophy, I want to see a future where there are ethically and financially sustainable business models available for any designer or brand creator, where sustainable materials and processes are open-sourced and easily accessible through supply chains for everyone. In many ways, this is possible right now. We can access sustainable supply chains, materials, manufacturing, end-of-life, etc. There is a gap in this happening on a larger scale, a scale that would transform the future of fashion. Those behemoths who “own” fashion, from fast fashion to luxury, do not follow the visionary practices of these designers and brands we will go on to feature here.
In my visionary future of fashion, Stella McCartney would be the new Chanel. McCartney and her eponymous brand have forged a sustainable solution for luxury brands. The brand is an excellent case study of what is possible in Luxury Brand Sustainability.
Sustainable Brand credentials in summary:
“We strive to create the most beautiful and desirable products with the least impact on our planet.”
Cruelty Free: No fur, no leather, no animal glues, no feathers since day one of the Brand.
Animal material replacements: The Brand has create extraordinary solutions, including “Salian” - 100% plant-based, plastic and GMO-free alternative to fur. “VEGEA” - grape-based vegan alternative to Leather. Mylo - Bolt threads innovative fungi-originated leather.
SOKTAS: Regenerative cotton farm in Turkey. Stella McCartney has partnered with them in their journey from conventional to regenerative cotton.
NATIVA: Regenerative wool. This wool is ethically sourced through practices that support environmental impact and animal welfare.
Kelsun: A a kelp or seaweed-based fibre from Keel Labs.
These are several materials and processes used by Stella McCartney. The greater, values-aligned commitment is to “make every action count, inspiring trust and celebrating life. We are change agents; we are activists.”
When looking at McCartney, one cannot help but ask why Chanel, LV or other benchmark brands are not employing such materials or practices. After all, they are open-sourced and available, and the brand prices are comparable.
In my visionary sustainable future of fashion, Loro Piana and other quiet luxury outdoor and lifestyle brands would have the ethos and practices of Patagonia. This brand has led the way in taking care of our earth. With a mission statement to “build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis”.
During COP26, Patagonia ceased calling itself a “sustainable brand”, as it considers itself part of the problem despite all the great efforts.
Sustainable brand credentials in Summary:
87% of Patagonia apparel contains recycled material
• Like Stella McCartney, cotton comes from regenerative farming practices
• Uses factory floor scraps for a number of products
• Require their entire supply chain to follow a strict code of conduct and actively check they adhere to it
Offers a repair and reuse programme
Has conducted studies with industry bodies on the impact of microplastics
Discourages customers from purchasing too many of its products, including the “Do not buy this jacket” campaign.
While these are truly visionary commitments and practices, there is a focus on “hyper responsibility” throughout their business practices. Patagonia has taken this further by publishing “The Future of the Responsible Company”, this not only documents their own journey, but also shares a free framework for developing your responsible company.
There are other visionary sustainable brands, including:
EILEEN FISHER - An ethical designer who creates clothing from organic materials, natural dyes and recycled textiles.
Public accountability for a 100% sustainable business model
Fair labour practices
The brand’s principles for “First life, Second life, Third life” - “Sustainable Design”, “Shop renew”, “Waste no more”. Designing new items from sustainable materials, reselling worn items, recycling used items into new products.
MARA HOFFMAN
Prioritises natural, recycled, and organic fibres
Focuses on zustainable materials
Open guidelines for their work and their business collaborators on human rights, the development of environmentally friendly technologies, and a promise to keep learning and growing if guidelines are found to be broken.
In 2023 Mara Hoffman was awarded the CFDA Environmental Sustainability Award, shortly afterwards Mara announced the closure of her Brand, saying SS24 would be her last collection.
To add my personal favourites:
STELAR
Lorna Watson, a purpose-driven entrepreneur, has created this beautiful accessories brand. “Made in communities, not in factories”.
MALABAR BABY
Anjali Harjani, a brilliant founder, committed to wrapping our precious babies in safe and loving items.
These pioneers are really forming the future of fashion despite the ravaging competition from fast fashion and non-sustainable brands. Is it always easy? Absolutely not. Does everyone understand why they do it? No. Yet I truly believe the intentions created in these brands and by these designers are creating love and authenticity in the world—a counter to the driver for higher margins and hyper growth.
Recently, Chanel and others have been consistently raising prices while their quality is deteriorating. Dior was recently caught using factories with unethical manufacturing conditions in Italy, including forced labour by illegal workers, making bags for 57USD and selling them for 2800USD. Dana Thomas raised the statement when she published her 2008 book “How Luxury lost its Lustre”. I now ask: has luxury lost its lustre? Are we now at a time when we want to connect with authentic and beautiful products. We don’t need any more cheaply made clothing or overpriced luxury bags. The intention of these brands and businesses is to have us buy to fill a void or feel better about ourselves. All driven by a sense of needing to be more. Let’s step away from these feelings of inadequacy and own things we can truly love and value. These designers and brands drive a commitment to a better world and planet. By engaging with these brands, we, too, create a better world for ourselves and those around us. That is truly visionary and loving.
As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.
Kate xx