Let’s Talk About Thrifting…

The recent news in fashion has been awash with the extremes of circularity to overconsumption.  Shein achieved its highest sales in the first two quarters of 2023.  Meanwhile, BoF had an excellent article on thrifting:  “Resale won’t fix fast fashion’s sustainability issues”.

Photo by cottonbro studio

So let’s have a look at thrifting and what a great step forward this is for the future of fashion. 

What exactly is thrifting?  

Thrifting - Meaning:

“Simply put, thrifting means to go shopping at a thrift store, garage sale, or flea market where you’ll find gently used items at discounted prices.”

This is a recently popularised term since consignment and preloved shopping have become new ways to engage with fashion.  

So, it is a good thing - right? It adds a circular dimension to the Fashion economy, where consumers can buy “gently used” items instead of more fast fashion. 

But is that really what happens?

In the earlier mentioned “Business of Fashion” article published this week, “Resale won’t fix fast fashion’s sustainability issues”, BoF discussed the issue of millions of pieces of fast fashion products showing up on resale sights. So much so that “Vestiare Collective” have banned brands like ASOS and Boohoo from listing on their site. The enormous quantity of fast fashion that has been produced in the past two decades is choking our world and resale sites.  

To resell is said to be “disposing of clothing responsibly”. Yet what value do these clothes have?  

What is the point of thrifting anyway? After some thoughts and discussions with experienced thrift shopper Daisy,  a few interesting points came into view.  

The intention of thrifting is:

  • To dispose of clothing responsibly 

  • To add a circular element to the fashion system.  

  • To acquire unusual clothing to contribute to your own unique style/wardrobe.  

  • To buy something aspirational at a lower cost, so you can actually own a brand you could normally not afford.

Sadly, it seems some consumers are using thrifting to shop trends. So now there is another step in the fashion cycle, and because thrifted clothes are even cheaper, no wonder the primary production of cheap clothing is still increasing. This completely defeats the object of resale. Why is it that when there is an opportunity to be more conscious of shopping choices, we so easily take the approach of buying more, using quickly and discarding it to buy more again? “If you are approaching thrifting the same as (Using) fashion in general, there’s no point” — quote from Daisy. 

So where do we go with all of this? We cannot stop the over-production. After all, Shein “achieved its highest profits in the first half of 2023”. So many consumers are not “with the programme” of conscious shopping. What can we do as individuals?

  • Consider why you are buying it.

  • Develop a personal style. Get to know what suits you and populate your wardrobe accordingly. This is very fulfilling.

  • Don’t shop trends.

  • Fast Fashion is not bad; it is the behaviour of throwaway fashion that causes the issues.

  • Value your clothes.

  • Educate yourself so that you understand the impact of your behaviour.

Most of all - Enjoy fashion; love life! My mantra!

With love,

Kate

Kate Padget-Koh

What is the Future of Luxury?

Last week, I had the absolute joy and privilege to visit a new dear friend and incredible impact entrepreneur, Lorna Watson of “Stelar”.  

STELAR:

“We work directly with artisans in Bali to create unique, hand-woven and handcrafted accessories that have history and meaning. STELAR is re-imagining indigenous skills that have been passed down from generation to generation to create long-term positive impact and sustainable livelihoods within the communities that most rely upon them.”

A selection of products from Stelar

Not only are these products fulfilling so many criteria as an impact business they are also beautiful, luxurious and ultimately authentic. Lorna has committed herself to bringing value and awareness to the traditions of Bali’s communities. Her unquestionable love for the island, its people and its traditions is deeply moving (I had a case of Founder envy). The Brand has taken something traditional and almost forgotten and brought it to the current demands and desires of the modern world, creating an outstanding example for the Future of Fashion. The products are luxurious, easy to understand, reasonably priced and full of love. I have a few pieces, a phone carrier, a hat, a visor and a gorgeous tote that I love. I bought a Men’s Tote for my husband.  

A few days later, I went out with my recently purchased famous Brand Ch**el bag. I felt quite shocked by how much this once-so-desired bag had lost its appeal to me. What was it that had changed? Was it my rapidly evolving need for newness? Could I so easily and quickly be over a very desirable bag? I had been obsessed with this bag; I had pinned it on Pinterest, hunted for it on Vestiare, watched some Youtube videos on the said bag, and I even dreamed about it.  After a matter of months, it was no longer my ‘it’ or ‘trophy’ bag. I was really annoyed with myself, and I started to question my own sense of logic and commitment to impacting the future of anything (let alone fashion).

Now let’s step back to the beginning of this blog. I was moved by the Stelar creations, a deep appreciation of the journey to create every bag or basket. During my visit to the Stelar Office, I met some of the Artisans, who were clearly so proud of their work and loved being a part of this Brand. The mesmerising stories Lorna shared of the miracles happening as she developed Stelar through these communities. Stelar has a sense of kismet, fated destiny or good karma, as if the stars had aligned to make this beautiful Brand happen. Bali is a profoundly spiritual and magical place that connects with us deeply. Lorna had experienced that during her first trip. She was drawn to make this happen, let’s say, to bring this magic to life through her Business and products. This is truly extraordinary.

My Branded Luxury Bag had grown tired so quickly due to the lack of connection and absence of authenticity I felt to it. At one time, Chanel was like Stelar, created with love, passion and commitment. This bag is still a very desirable bag and well-made. What I consider for myself is the ineffable effect of Stelar’s products when compared to my Chanel bag. There is a sense of something greater than a manufactured bag. To quote Lorna: “Made in communities, not factories”. Is this magical connection something we are craving from a deep place?

In these blogs, I explore the concept of being an aware or conscious consumer. I am constantly looking at what will be the Future of Fashion.   

Stelar is the epitome of the Future of Fashion that I look forward to. Authentic, respectful, conscious, ethical, beautiful and positively impacting the lives of those involved.     

Great work; amazing, Lorna and everyone at Stelar.  

This Brand is an example of the future of luxury. I look forward to your continued success and the inspiration you are to so many others. This is proof of creating a dream fulfilled.

Until next time, take care.

Kate Padget-Koh

Is life on this planet a privilege?

There is a slight mood shift in the blog this week.  

I went scuba diving for the first time since 2018.  So, I have been away from the relentlessness of city life and have spent the majority of my days in the ocean. The many hours in silence with nature's beauty allowed me to contemplate many things, including our (human) relevance on this planet.

Our dive team - thank you Bei Zhou for the beautiful photo.

A few points to address: the Wakatobi dive resort is exceptional in its conservation efforts.  I have been here a number of times, and it is one of my favourite places on the planet.  The last time I visited was in 2017; to be back was an extraordinary and long-anticipated trip.  The resort was closed for business from March 2020 until July 2022.  As they needed to keep maintaining and leasing the reefs, we did not know how healthy they would be.  We needn’t have worried; they were amazing, full of life and abundance. 

Being in this place, surrounded by nature and beautiful creatures every day, was very inspiring and also humbling.  I had the experience of the privilege it is to live on this planet—the miracles of nature, the beauty of our world in all its elements.  A magnificent creation we all get to be a part of.  

How does this relate to fashion, shopping and consumption, you may ask.  Back to my opening question: “Is life on this planet a privilege?”.  Moreover, how would this view of life change your everyday actions and behaviours?  Would you be conscious of what you were consuming, its impact on resources, and the mark left by you and your purchases?  How would this view change the way you live

From my perspective and what I create as a commitment for the future:

  • Spend more time in the magnificence of nature.

  • Go beyond my comfort zone as an opportunity for growth and leadership.

  • Be aware of my habits and distractions; be present.

  • Create a wardrobe that respects nature and celebrates life.  (Sounds easy!)

  • Bring awareness to this and be an inspiration to others.

  • Be present to the pull of nature; make it a priority.

This blog will create a new conversation for the future of fashion, creating opportunities for making an impact and inspiring readers to do the same.  Creating our life on this planet as a privilege is a challenge I give you all.  

As I consistently state, I love fashion and engaging with it.  We can all enjoy it, too.  

My challenge is for you to make your actions from the place of living life on this planet as a privilege.

Kind regards
Kate

Hello! What Is Next For Fashion?

This week I was asked about the future of Sustainability in Fashion—an interesting question to contemplate.  I was asked in the context of large Fashion Companies and what they can do for a better future.  This individual talked a lot about energy emissions, water, recycled materials and other marginal changes in existing practices.  As a constant problem-solver, I felt compelled to have an answer—some clever solution for the likes of Inditex and a solution to the relentlessness of fast fashion.

Photo by Olya Harytovich

My self-awareness suddenly kicked in, creating an opportunity to step back and start a new conversation.  A conversation which is desperately needed.  Something completely new.  When we discuss the future of fashion, it cannot be an improvement on the past.  No marginal improvements, no hopefulness or small reductions.  A completely new conversation for what is possible to create.

So what is the new conversation for the future of fashion?  In response to this question, I was in full flow with so many opportunities, possibilities and miracles.  Let’s look at a few considerations on this topic.

The business of Fashion is clearly not interested in Sustainability other than box-ticking and making incremental changes. The whole business of Sustainability is seriously bad for business.  It makes us look at the entire consumer cycle, the engine that fuels growth and captures us all in a cycle of wanting more of what we really don’t need.  

Since the SDG Goals have been created and even more Sustainable awareness is in general conversation, the Brands (both fast fashion and the luxury goods industry) have increased their output.  How can the industry be so misaligned?  Seriously committing to reduced environmental impact whilst increasing the number of product drops.

How can this possibly impact the Industry with so many conflicting concerns and behaviours?

I contemplated this whilst in an Airport immigration hall filled with travellers of many nationalities.  As I looked around, there was something very clear.  People are not wearing much Fashion.  There are a few commonly worn items, sneakers, jeans or some form of washed cotton pants/shorts, T-shirts and leggings.  If we could truly impact those, this would be a game-changer.  My challenge to the industry, ourselves, our mills, brands, founders and designers: what can you do to impact those few items?  How can we create a circular, innovative, sustainable solution to the most worn fashion pieces?

Photo by Ron Lach

What are your thoughts?   

All the best,
Kate
Kate Padget-Koh

What Is The Future Of Your Wardrobe?

Welcome back!  I hope you are enjoying these conversations on the psychology of dressing and shopping more consciously.  Our next topic is to consider how we can create a more “conscious” or “sustainable” wardrobe while still having fun and enjoying clothes.  

Kate in Upcycling by @designblender.co and @matthui_yl

I have thought a lot about what is a good way to approach dressing and building a wardrobe as a Fashion lover who wants to be more conscious and sustainable.  We know there are more than enough clothes on the planet.  We don’t need to buy anything else.  We also know there are many ways (temptations) out there to make us want to shop or update our look—something of a constant tussle between guilt and desire.  We know we want to do the right thing, and yet, we so want that cute dress or awesome pair of sneakers

The question is, how to do the right thing while having fun with fashion or dressing up?  From my own experience, I have been an avid consumer of fashion all my adult life; admittedly, not fast fashion, but as we know by now, over-consumption is not just present in the fast fashion industry.  I have worked in Fashion my entire career and had the luxury of receiving reduced-priced clothing, the latest Season’s clothes, samples and access to people making things for me.  A whole range of options surrounded me for beautiful and on-trend clothing.  I would update my wardrobe every Season while creating new looks and constant excitement at chic/cool options.  I always had something fabulous to wear and would have another excuse for a new outfit — a wedding, a party, a vacation, a new job — until I became aware of the impact.

When I first encountered Sustainability and the impact of Clothing Production on the environment, I gave myself a shopping challenge.  I could not buy anything new for six months.  It was an interesting and confronting experience.  I began to understand how much of my life was spent looking at clothes, window shopping (brick & mortar or online), reading about fashion, and buying new and giving away old clothes.  Most of all, how much I was not making conscious decisions about how I was consuming, but more in a constant cycle.  Since then, I have reduced my shopping.  A career change and the Pandemic changed me forever.  I had two years when I bought very little, almost zero


Nowadays, I look for alternative ways to satiate my love for Fashion and looking good while doing the right thing, and I have found a few ways forward:

1. WEAR YOUR OLD CLOTHES: I had many amazing discoveries in my wardrobe during the pandemic.  Encouraged by my dear friend @the_elephant_in_my_wardrobe, I created some posts about my old clothes.  I discovered some 20-year-old Gucci and Prada gems, among other stunning items.  I did have to lose some weight to get into some of them, but that was another bonus.  

2. UPCYCLING: I met the amazing @Designblender and @fashionaclinic. They are both incredibly talented Designers for up-cycling clothes.  This is not a scalable process, but it is a beautiful way of giving special garments a new life—especially occasion clothes like wedding dresses, etc.

3. VESTIARE & other luxury second-hand portals:  This trend has exploded in the past few years.  It is a way to purchase luxury while being conscious.

4. ORGANIC/SUSTAINABLE FASHION BRANDS: Many incredible “conscious” Brands exist.  From Toteme, Stella McCartney, and Gabriella Hearst to Designers and Teams who are passionate and committed to making the Fashion Industry an inspiring and impactful place.

5. RENTAL: I have yet to gain experience in this, except when I was Maid of Honour for a friend.  It is a fantastic way of wearing exceptional Designer items for occasions without owning them and worrying about the cost per wear.

6. SWAPPING: Swap your old clothes with friends and family.

7. THRIFTING: A passion for so many people by creating new outfits and giving new life to other people’s cast-offs.   

There are so many interesting and exciting ways to be a conscious consumer of fashion or an eco-fashionista.  It gives you power for your creativity and a sense of joy.  To truly develop your own style and do the right thing is a beautiful gift to yourself and the future of fashion.

Thanks and kind regards
Kate